Omnia Luo Runway Spring 2009 - Saving the Best For Last

On Friday September 12th at 5:00 p.m. in the Salon at Bryant Park, as some of the exhibitors were already closing down their exhibits in the main lobby, Omnialuo, the line designed by super-talented Chinese designer Zheng Luo, was unveiled in a premier runway show. The show began as a blizzard of animated cherry blossoms floated onto the stage (along with some real, silken petals). If this wasn't breathtaking enough, the collection was so beautiful and unique the audience got up to cheer at the finale -- a very rare occurrence during Fashion Week. You could really feel the excitement in the room. Those in the audience agreed: this show was one of the best....saved for last!

Backstage, I was fortunate to have video capabilities for this show, thanks to actress/TV hostess Cognac Wellerlane, and photographer/videographer Lorenzo Esquivel (to my right).

*EXCLUSIVE! Alison Blackman talks to lead hair and makeup artists backstage, and asks Designer Zheng Luo about the collection. See photos of these looks, below!

The level of detail in this collection was absolutely amazing and something you really needed to get up-close-and-personal with to fully appreciate. It's hard not to go "ooohhhhh" when you see the clothes up close. Some of the opulent fabrics were hand-dyed, and there were yards and yards and yards of gorgeous, shimmery silk. beading, embellishments, lace and embroidery were also applied by hand. Hand craftsmanship and attention to detail may be lacking in some collections--but not in this one.

Creative Nail Design, the nail company of Fashion Week and the runways, were there in force. They used a ladylike, shimmery brown polish called "Iced Cappucino."

The makeup, by Makeup, by Nadine Luke and the M.A.C. Cosmetics Pro Team, channelled a modern geisha with a delicate complexion warmed up with a rose blush. Lips were colored pink lips and were dabbed with a deep, rose red in the middle of the upper and lower lip.

A really beautiful, modern take on an ornate, geisha hairstyle was an created by Heather Packer for Cutler NYC/Redken. The half up and twisted sides updo with bun looked elegant with the feminine clothes.

Here are some of the Cutler and Redken products and tools that Heather used to create the look, including Redken Iron Silk 07 (to straighten hair with a flat iron) and Forceful #23--a hair Spray that kept the style in place.

The designs, under the leadership of Zheng Luo, the Company's founder and award winning chief designer, already have a following of affluent Chinese women who appreciate luxury and can afford it. There's a reason that Zheng Luo, has already won five CFDA awards (including best women's wear designer two years running). She tailored this collection, shown at Bryant Park, exclusively to suit a New York audience and the reesulting collection was full of modern, wearable clothes that look special.

The show was also special --actually, quite spectacular! It is the type of runway show you want to experience at Fashion Week, but almost never do: one that's beautiful, memorable.... and unexpected. New York audiences don't stand up and cheer very often, especially not after a seemingly endless week of show after show after show. Everyone got to their feet to applaud for this one!

The theme for this Spring 2009 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show was: "Beauty Blossoms." In China, the cherry blossom symbolizes feminine beauty and the inspiration for the collection comes from an ancient Chinese poem written by poet and scholar Cui Hu from China's Tang Dynasty. The poem artistically combines the beauty of a young woman with that of a cherry blossom to illustrate the scholar's unrequited love of nature and the lady; a love that continued long after the lady was no longer present. The first look out on the runway, a flirty, soft pink dress with silky sash,and portrays this perfectly. Each item gave us a fleeting "ahhhh" moment of beauty. Everyone will be talking about this collection for a long time to come--even the most jaded of fashionistas.

I kept thinking that the no matter how feminine the designs were, they weren't at all "girly." That's the genius of this collection. What you see on the surface isn't quite what you get. For example, a white lace dress with a cherry colored sash avoids being too "young," with the addition of a slip of black lace, peeking obviously from underneath the hem of the dress. Another dress with a sash and bow could have been "too teen" but instead radiated elegance, femininity and sophistication, thanks to a low back with an interesting "envelolpe" treatment. The designer made sure that her clothes always speak softly, but also carry a big stick. In other words, as each model moved down the runway she radiated femininity, but not in a weak way. The body conscious, luxurious designs gave the models confidence, grace and power. I'm assuming that for China's rapidly growing class of urban, affluent, professional women, the ability to look soft and feminine, but also to be strong and decisive, is paramount. That will also make them very appealing to women in the USA who can afford statement dressing in the form of beautiful, beautifully-crafted clothes that let them look like a woman, but hold their own with the guys.

Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz

I loved the showy accessories that made even a simple sick outfit look impressive -- exotic, with a hint of Asia.

Color palettes ranged from subtle to sensational, from deep charcoal and hot pink, to light pink and creamy ivory. The long gowns were especially spectaular and elegant,e ach accentuating a womanly figure. This one, in creamy ivory, had an almost "Gibson Girl" like allure, with a feathered top and nipped in waist.

photo-mercedes benz

Everyone applauded this show-stopper- a rose-colored gown artfully layered and wrapped around in an asymmetrical column of lovely silk. Like genuine rose petals, each layer gently moved for a sexy reveal of leg as the model walked. Yes, it was sexy, but not overtly so. Zheng Luo knows what she is doing. She has the ability to balance beauty and flattering sex appeal, with something you can actually wear in in polite society. That's talent!

OmniaLuo, Inc. ( http://www.omnialuo.com.cn/ ), based in China's fashion capital of Shenzhen, designs, markets, and distributes fine women's apparel under the brand name OMNIALUO. If their plans come through, the company may be coming to the United States to Madison Avenue. It will be a perfect location.