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Thursday, February 12, 2009

Loris Diran Runway Fall 2009

Although most of the shows are still held at the Bryant Park tents, increasingly, a lot of the truly innovative and interesting designers are showing elsewhere at the same time. It's challenging to run around town from one location to another. Today, however, I was fortunate to be able to report on the Loris Diran show.








Loris Diran is a really striking man, but he's a fashion designer with a Fine Arts degree from NYU. After graduation, Diran went on to work for such legendary design houses such as Versace, Claude Montana, and Chanel. In 2003, Diran launched a collection of luxury knits, and in 2005 he started his signature men's line, immediately followed by a Women's Ready To Wear collection. Fans of Diran's designers include Sarah Jessica Parker, Beyonce Knowles, Ricky martin, Jonathan Rhys Meyer, and Nicolette Sheridan. His designs were also featured in the hit film, "THE DEVIL WEARS PRADA".




Here's a sneak peek at the backstage area.



For Fall 2009, Diran's inspiration was Japanese Armor. You can certainly see Shogun-eque elements and Japanese Elements in these designs. The clothes were body-conscious, very structured, some dresses for the ladies with strict corseting. But luxurious fabrics soften the looks and made them pretty in the ladies collection, powerful-looking but hip, in the men's.








Accordingly, the hair and makeup for the show (hair by Christo, Makeup by Dex New York) were meant to showcase the "Shogun" or Japanese armor vibe. Christo, shown in the photo on the left, is known for his genius especially with wavy or curly hair, but the style he devised for the Loris Diran show would work on any type of hair. Christo explained that he wanted to do a downtown, bohemian look with a bit of the 1930's in it, and also cater to the Japanese armor theme. That's a tall order! Since many of Diran's designs have high necks, he needed a style that would look clean and be lifted away from the neckline. You can't see it in this photo, but one side of the model's hair is flat against her head, while the other is braided, adding an interesting dimension as she walked down the runway. I wouldn't attempt this complicated style alone at home, but you could braid both sides of your hair, pull it back into a ponytail and then into a modified chignon, and you'd have a bit of this interesting look.





It takes products to make complicated style, stay put. Christo and his team used Glow & Shine finishing spray, Shaping Spray, plus a Repair Styling Cream (with aloe, honey, lecithin, hydrolyzed wheat protein and vitamins A and E) and a few other Curlisto products, made the look, great.




TIP: For Spring 2009 Christo thinks we'll be seeing lots of natural looking styles, but for Fall, he's predicting lots of color changes with warmer color.



...and speaking of color the makeup look from Dex New York was "young, downtown girl." As makeup artist BP Carmouche described it. It was simple, but perfect for the clothes. All the focus was on the eyes, with bold brows. The lids featured a slightly iridescent gunmetal called "Empire State." Eyes were lined with a Kohl powder pencil (very blendable) and the highlight was a shite shimmer called "Rockefeller" and a bronze gold. This look was "smouldery" but not quite as "goth" and black as in season's past...and it was really flattering. The mode's own skin shone through the loose mineral powder foundation, with no blush and a sheer shimmer called "East Hampton" added for a bit of a pearly flow. Lips were nearly natural, with a pink sheer gloss called "Franklin Street." Dex New York has pressed and loose mineral makeup.




TIP: BP Carmouche told me that if you want to use loose mineral powders on your eye, add a lot of translucent powder below the eyes before you apply it. Then, whisk away any fallout from your brush along with the translucent powder after you are done...you'll never be "speckled, again!"



As music sounded through the room, thanks to J Tahleim/Digisol Entertainment, tailored clothing, especially pants suits for women, and skinny pants for men, showed how Fall suit dressing could be serious, but modern.



I loved the impeccable tailoring clever detailing and the way these dresses hugged the body but also had movement. The piping looks both tailored and unique.


a flowing gown with an elegant, draped back, and loose pants with a striped jacket and romantic, ruffled blouse, make for trendy eveningwear.


Loris Diran's new Bowery District boutique at 3 East 1st Street opens tomorrow. But if you're looking for this designer's originals, be prepared: men's suits range from $2,300 to $2,800; women's separates around $500, and dresses creeping up to $1,200.

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