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Mercedes
Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007 Preview -The Ellen Tracy Runway Show
by Alison Blackman Dunham
Ellen Tracy
fashions--they're sophisticated, classic designs that are beloved
staples of fashionable women of all ages. Ellen
Tracy clothes range from sportswear to cocktail dresses, beautifully
constructed and meticulously tailored, in luxurious fabrics. There was
more color than in many lines this season: simple black and
white, to deep, earthy goldenrod, orange, bright red, and
elegant, chocolate brown. Here is my report on Ellen Tracy for Fall,
2007, from backstage and the runway. I hope you enjoy it!
It's always so busy backstage,
The tiny space is
crowded with everyone from essential personnel such as dressers,
makeup artists, hairstylists, manicurists, and of course, models, but
also with photographers and reporters, and sometimes, the designer and
friends. It is hectic, crowded, loud, and just a bit stressful.
Runway shows never seem to start on time, but there is a
schedule, and lots of models to make up and dress.
NARS makeup artist James
Boehmer explained his concept or the Ellen Tracy show: in
discussions with the designer about the makeup for the show, they kept going
back and forth about the lips--should it be a stain, or a lipstick?
As you will see below, lipstick definitely won out. The red lip against the creamy,
matte skin was the perfect
accompaniment to the tailored sweaters, coats, and pants. Bold
red lips are a fashion trend for Fall 2007, adding life to the primary
palette of grey, brown, black and beige. Note the shimmery eyes,
too. In the photo to the left, James is just starting to apply
makeup to
the model, Tao. James explained that he was at least a bit inspired by the sexy
Robert Palmer girl, and
Helmut Newton. His look is more modern, without the harsh
angles and deep blush of those iconic models. The models wear no
blush at all for this show. The result is aggressive, but elegant. James
simply added a bit of highlighter put high on cheekbones so that the
face glows a bit when the model turns.
Above are two views of the finished
makeup look. You can create it or a toned-down
version of it, at home. Of course, you'll need to apply it very carefully! Note
the precise lip. That takes practice, and patience! Most
of the time the makeup artists put into this look wasn't about
application, but about precise lines and blending. I like the way the shimmery purple eye makeup goes all the
way into the brows, but all the harsh lines are removed by blending,
blending and more blending--be prepared to take your time and
do it right, or it will look garish, not glamorous.
Here are the actual NARS Cosmetics items James used. The eye makeup is
really several different colors (plus a smudged and blended black eye
pencil). James used a Duo Cream Eyeshadow: "Madagascar" and blended it,
blended, it and then applied "Zardoz"
and seriously blended it. The cream duo is a sheer
formula created by
NARS to use alone, or underneath
NARS powder
eye
shadows for more color, depth and intensity. Lots and lots of
mascara was also applied and black liner smudged top and bottom (a LOT
of smudging). Brows were gelled, but no color was applied. He lined
the model's lips first, then filled them in with pencil, and applied
a beautiful, creamy, velvet-matte red brick lip pencil called
"Forbidden Red." *see reviews of NARS Fall 2007 makeup in the
September 2007
Advice
Sisters What Works Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion review column
The hair was also very controlled and a
bit severe (ala. Robert Palmer Girl). RAMONA from Bumble & Bumble is
working on this bun, but to get your hair this sleek, on your own, you
really need an extra pair of hands, and lots of styling products for
control and shine. Creative Nail design did the manicures--a
ladylike, totally sheer, iridescent pink called "Negligee"
Most of the time, models are running
from show to show and are simply exhausted. They are not into talking
with anyone, let alone reporters. But lovely Ajuma was
friendly and chatty until the makeup artist needed her full attention!
Prior to the show, each model tries on the outfits she will be wearing
on the runway, and is photographed in them as a guide for the
dressers. Ajuma is in the middle, wearing a gorgeous, glittery
cocktail dress. On the right, here is my snapshot of Ajuma wearing the
same dress on the
runway (unless you are in the front row, it's hard to get a clear shot
without lots of heads in the way).
Ellen Tracy was started in 1949 as a blouse company by a man--Herbert
Gallen. He hired Linda Allard who eventually became Ellen
Tracy's Design Director. Her name was added to the Ellen Tracy label
in 1984. Giving interviews to the press backstage are
George Collins Sharp, Vice President of Design for Ellen Tracy (on the
left) and George Rosenberger, President of Ellen Tracy (on the right).
Too many people who don't need to be backstage are a pain in the you-know-what (and I'd love to be invited
back for next season). I took my photos and notes, backstage, and then
ventured into the tent to give you a view of it most people don't
normally see. (they're in line outside, until security lets them
walk to assigned seats or standing room.
This is the pristine runway, still covered with white plastic. When
the plastic is removed, that's the sign the show is just about to begin.
I rarely get front row, but I did have a seat--can you find it?
There's an amazing amount of excitement when the lights go down, the
music starts thumping out a beat, and the first model makes her
entrance. I love the look on the left, and adore Ajuma's cinnamon alpaca coat
and mahogany crepe pants. These warm, earthy colors showed up in a variety of pieces, and
even in a leather jacket. It's no surprise that urban chic and the
color black (and black & white) predominated the collection. Black is
the uniform of savvy women.
Ellen
Tracy features true wearable sportswear chic, but with a little bit of
an edge. Although I don't have a lot of photos of the entire
collection, each piece is something real women will want to own. For
example, this lovely, black and white wool jacket, still in it's
wrapping, backstage, has little silvery flecks in it. In the
right hand photo, you can see it on Tao, on the runway!
For more information on Ellen Tracy (and
a cool video) visit:
http://www.ellentracy.com/
*all
text and photos by Alison Blackman Dunham --
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