Backstage at the Diesel Runway Show Fall Fashion Week 2009 -An Advice Sisters Feature (exclusive video)

*text and photos by Alison Blackman Dunham 

Diesel is an international design company created by designer Renzo Rosso in 1978 to create high-quality, edgy fashions for men and women,  featuring denim and accessories.  The Diesel Black Gold label is for those looking for edgier, more individual style.

For this collection, the inspiration was the depression of 1930 (made modern) along with a bit of Oliver Twist and the heyday of the jazz age.   The looks were dark, layered, rumpled, a bit despairing, and quite costume-y.  Therefore, the nails, makeup and hair had to make a strong statement as well. 

For this show, Creative Nail Design created  an un-named, custom-blended, deep chocolate opaque polish that reminded me a bit of their blackened brown polish called "Fedora."  It was chosen in part, to compliment some of the colors in the clothes.  Here, CND's Amanda Fontanarrosa displays the color against a white background.  You can also see it in the video, below. If you'd like to be ahead of the curve and create your own "Diesel-like" polish, simply mix one part black polish with another dark polish of your choosing (in this case, a chocolate brown will do nicely). Short nails will be in style for Fall.  TIP:  to keep dark colors longer-lasting, use an acetone-based nail polish remover...it helps the polish to "stick."

Makeup Artist Charlotte Tilbury for M.A.C. cosmetics created the stunning makeup look for the Diesel runway show. As Charlotte explained: “The look today is inspired by the depression in the ‘30s and by what's happening in our economy, today. Because it’s a modern depression, it’s a little bit more rock and roll, more lived in.”

 

The intense, black, smoky eyes were created with a M.A.C. Eye Liner Pencil (also popular at other shows) called "Smolder," on the top, bottom. Tilbury then added an overlay of M.A.C. "Blackware" Gloss to give the eyes a wet, lived-in look. Several coats of black Mascara added drama, while the eyebrows were "set"  with M.A.C. Clear Brow Set.  A natural complexion was accomplished with M.A.C. Foundation was used to even out the models' skin tone, finished with M.A.C. Prep + Prime Finishing Powder.  The smudgy but red lips were a bold choice on the runway, even under the darkened lights. The lip look was "intended to look worn off, as if she's been out all night and she's been kissing," Charlotte explained.  The lips were created with a combination of M.A.C. "Brick Lip Pencil" with M.A.C. Lipstick in "Black Knight," and "Ruby Woo."

Every makeup artist's station has a concept photo of the hair and makeup, along with lots of brushes, bottles, jars and compacts.

 

Hair Stylist Eugene Soulieman created the wild hair look for women, using Wella products and as a final touch, net "hairbands."  His vision, faithfully displayed, was Toulouse Lautrec meets Les Miserables meets the Artful Dodger, meets women living in the depression of the 30's.  In Soulieman's own words, it was the: “Fall of the Empire” look based on a glamorous woman who has fallen on hard times."  The look might not be something you'd want to completely embrace, but hair and makeup on the runway is meant to convey a concept and a feeling.  Take from it an element you like, and go with it!

 

The messy, unstructured, very wild hair actually began by seriously controlling it!  Eugene started by using Wella hairspray as setting lotion, before curling sections of hair with a curling iron, and then pinning it in place to "set."  Other sections of hair were bound tightly in corkscrews with string as you can see in the right hand photo.  They reminded me of electrical coils! The model's hair then remained curled and pinned until right before the show, when it was  (presumably, carefully) brushed out to create a frizzy, poufy cloud around the model's face.  The final touch was the edgy, black, fishnet veil headband over the face and in some cases, wrapped like the model had a headache, under her chin.

 

Advice Sisters Video Exclusive!!!! 

I partnered backstage for the Diesel Fall 2009 Runway Show with television host Cognac Wellerlane to bring you an exclusive, Advice Sisters video look backstage, and that "front row seat" on the runway. I interview Amanda Fontanerossa of Creative Nail Design about the nail looks, Cognac Wellerlane interviews Makeup Artist Charlotte Tilbury for M.A.C. ...and check out the complete hair, nails and makeup looks on the runway!  

 

 See the my exclusive photos from the Diesel 2009 Fall Fashion Week Runway show, right from the photographer's riser, at:  http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/dieselrunway.html

 

 

copyright © 2009 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS®  The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark.  These photos are watermarked.  That is because no portion of this web site, including photos or illustrations, may be copied or used in any without written permission of THE ADVICE SISTERS.   For more information about how to legally use these photos, please E-Mail: advicesisters@advicesisters.net.