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 Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007 Preview -The Alexandre Herchcovitch Runway Show 

 by Alison Blackman Dunham

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Alexandre Herchovitch's Fall runway show was an eye-popping display of  minimalist eco-chic,  but beyond the theatrical outfits, Mr.  Herchcovitch is a designer of fashion-forward clothes that women would like to own and wear. Here is my report on the Mercedes Benz Fall 2007 Fashion Week runway show for Alexandre Herchcovitch from backstage and the runway. I hope you enjoy it!

 

I had a long wait until I could finally convince someone to let me backstage for Alexandre Herchovitch's runway show, even though I was on the list for access.  There are so many people coming and going, and claiming to be on lists, that the people in charge of checking people in have a challenging job.  By the time I got the ok, I had just a little bit of time to take a few photos, and get the scoop about the makeup from the lead makeup artist for M.A,C Cosmetics, Philippe Chansel.

  As you can see from the close-up photo and the actual makeup sheet for the show from M.A.C. this is a dramatic look with al the focus on the eyes, and minimal makeup on other features.  A strong focus on just eyes, or lips showed up as a constant theme on the Fall runways.  In many cases, the dominant color was black or deep blue, but for this show. As explained to me by Philippe Chansel for M.A.C Cosmetics, Alexandre Herchcovitch designs a lot for Brazilian women with olive skin, and the colors he chose work particularly well with this type of complexion.  Philippe told me his vision for the makeup for this show was to create a rustic and ethnic look, that seems natural and somewhat rough, but very artfully blended. His vision was a peasant woman's view of how beauty after she's been working all day ---her labor shows on her eyes ( but in a fashionable, beautiful way, of course).  Philippe made the look more exotic to fit the clothes, with deep, dramatic brown shadow ringing the eyes.  You really can't take your eyes of the model's eyes, especially with her very pale skin and nude lips.  

The hair, by Neil Moodie for Bumble & Bumble, featured messy buns, many which were hid under large hats, adding a minimalist look to the clothes, which were unusual, to say the least. This runway show featured what I'd call "industrial chic," mixing regular fabrics such as cotton and wool,  with unusual, proletarian materials, such as (what looked like) black garbage bags (or garbage bag-like plastic) cut into tunics.        Many of the outfits were shown with palm-leaf peasant/beekeeper hats, some made even more eye-catching with "mosquito netting veils" of black chiffon-like netting). Paired a black "garbage bag" tunic with tie neck, and beige suede high-heeled pump/boots with long ties, the dramatic makeup and shaggy hair by Neil Moodie for Bumble & Bumble (some models wore wigs), this dramatic look was really startling. As I walked around backstage and checked out the clothes, I saw mostly earthy tones including green, brown, teal & brown plaids, and some bright florals that seemed a bit out of place with all the rest of the subdued colors. ..but color was definitely lacking in the Fall shows, so I was happy to see some.  

Mixed in with the avant-garde were plenty of items that were very wearable and pretty.  I particularly liked a soft green and teal wool plaid fabric (plaid is another "must-have" for Fall 2007) which was used in several items, including a long coat that I'd adore, when the weather gets chilly.  The double-breasted teal wool caplet in this photo (with the cues for the dressers hanging around it) looks like it would be a very comfortable alternative to a jacket, and would also add color and warmth to an otherwise somber Fall palette.

I couldn't stay for the show, as I had another interview at the Altman Building to conduct backstage, but I snapped this photo of the designer before I left,  talking to one of his staff. You can see a colorful plaid blouse behind him!

 

For more photos of the Alexandre  Herchcovitch runway show visit:  The Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007 Fashion Week Web site

 

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