Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 9/8/07-Temperly London

The invitation for the Temperly London runway show at the Promenade in the Bryant Park tents was a textured white cardboard with elegant, black script lettering and a black and photo photo of 1920's bathing beauties sitting on an old jalopy. Really cute! And the Temperly London Spring 2008 collection could be called cute and elegant, too. The program notes suggest that the Temperly Spring/Summer 2008 collection was inspired by French seaside scenes of the 1930's, from Deauville to Biarritz. "Spring/Summer 2008 includes a new array of new silhouttes and plays on volume and proportion. Voluminous sleeves are paired with constricted waistlines and corsetry details whilst fabrics are manipulated with layers, frills, drapes and folds."

Of course, there were celebrities, supporting the British look. I believe the front row sported Demi Moore and Molly Sims seated next to stylist Rachel Zoe, but don't quote me on it! What I did notice were the cute "beach" umbrellas framing the runway entrance.

The collection, in my words, was youthful, diverse, and sophisticated. There were a lot of swingy short dresses, and quite a few designs with what I'd call "flamenco" ruffles, poet sleeves, and defined waists. The Black Label design for evening included stones and crystals, mounted like jewelry and decorating straps and waistbands to catch the light. A long, clingy, gold lame gown (walked down the runway to a modern musical mix of "Fever") was completely a nod to 1930's movie glamour, I would wager a bit that some of the evening dresses in this colelction will be snapped up by young Hollywood to wear to movie premieres and awards shows next season. Photography was a challenge at this show, but here is the hot, hip fashion model Agyness Deyn in the first dress of the collection, the white Cecelia Dress and White Bow Belt. A "miss" for me were unusual turbans with twisted braid in bright colors created by Patricia Underwood for Temperly that just looked to casual, too chunky and mismatched with the filmy, clingy, lightweight clothes on the runway.

Charlotte Tilbury did the makeup for MAC, which featured bold red lips in a warmer red than Fall's "dragon lady" tones. I'll get the actual details of the makeup later, but it looked like the eyes featured a metallic copper. he hair by Alain Pinchon for Aveda was quite interesting although I didn't get a good photo of it. The style was half up, half down, but brushed very close to the head on top and then twisted elegantly down the back of the head to leave a "rat tail." The look was a bit like a modern mullet, but mussed up on top to keep the "beachy" theme of the clothes. Christian Louboutin and World Tone provided the shoes.

*all text and photos by Alison Blackman Dunham -- copyright © 2007 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® No portion of this blog or any advicesisters content, including illustrations, may be copied or used in any without written permission. Permissions: advicesisters@advicesisters.net. The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 9/6/07-AngelDevil

I wasn't familiar with Angel Devil until I went to their reception/show at the Bryant Park Grill. I got a clue immediately, when these jaw-droppingly lovely guys came out and walked down the runway. How cute is this?

Features, cropped denim, sequins, chains, barely-there, see-through. It was all Sexy, Sexy, Sexy, Rock and Roll, but not too serious. It was rock and roll with a boudoir attitude, with lots of filmy fabrics, lurex, and glittery elements. These are perfect club/party clothes. Wearing most of the designs during the day might get you in a bit of trouble, unless you're in a rock band--then perhaps you can get away with it. But you know what? These sexy, glittery designs were simply FUN! Most of us could take one item from the collection and wear it with something more, uh, conservative and definitely enjoy the feeling. I think the photos speak for themselves.

The Devil Wears Prada and Becoming Jane star Jane Hathaway apparently doesn't always wear Prada....she seemed to enjoy the show, and graciously allowed us to take photos of her with the designers, one of whom is seen here, with an unidentified boy who appears to be holding his nose (trust me, nothing smelled bad in this lovely venue)! She is as lovely to look at in person and in the movies.

The makeup for this show was created by the adorable Rudy Miles for Aveda, and the "BIG" hair (hairpieces) was by Jon Reyman for Aveda. The high energy music was by Deejay Kevin Hedge, who graciously said "just get my best side" when I asked if I'd disturb him by standing next to his equipment to take photos.

*all text and photos by Alison Blackman Dunham -- copyright © 2007 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® No portion of this blog or any advicesisters content, including illustrations, may be copied or used in any without written permission. Please do not take my work! If you want to use text or photo (with proper credit) please ask for permission first at: advicesisters@advicesisters.net. The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark.

Fashion Week--Must-Haves

In my post of February 1st on this blog I wrote: "for 7 days those of us involved in Fashion Week will live in an altered reality. There will be memorable people to meet, and some who aren't so nice. There will be connections to make, and some that only last for the amount of time you are standing on the line to enter the show. We will know what's coming in fashion, but we can't know what's coming for the next 7 days until we live them.

Fashion Week is over. Every season I've attended, I find the experience to be like a roller-coaster ride. First, there's the anticipation. Then, there's the growing excitement as the first shows reveal a glimpse of our fashion future (for the next season, at least). Mid-week, there's exaustion: "Why am I subjecting myself to the intensity of this?" The intensity continues to build as the shows draw to a close. Who will show us something new and exciting? Whose collection will flop? What other news will affect us? This year, the death of Anna Nicole Smith, and the bitterly cold weather, were two big topics of conversation.

On Friday, after all of the above, I always feel a bit of a let-down as I bid farewell to the tents, my 7-day home-away-from-home. But the title of this blog post is "Fashion Week Must Haves." Here's what I simply couldn't be without --- followed by things I would definitely ditch (if it were up to me), and a few closing thoughts on Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007:

Fashion Week Must-Haves:

Clothes: really warm coat (will definitely get dirty since it will be dragged on floors, spilled on backstage, and rumpled in standing room). Comfortable shoes (heels tend to turn into flats, and then into sneakers as the week goes by) . Gel pads for comfortable shoes (no shoe is really comfortable after you've been standing all day). Layered clothing (you're going to get HOT, and then COLD, and then HOT, and then COLD...)!

Handbag: this is the second season that I've used a Butler Bag to carry all my essentials. It is sturdy, with inside compartments that let you see exactly what is inside without fumbling and fishing. It has seen me through travel, interviews, launch parties, and even a few dinner dates!

Emergency Kit: Tape (for everything from a broken camera to a ripped hem), Batteries (for the two digital cameras, audio voice recorder, and MP3Player I carry), Aleve and Aspirin (for aching feet and bones); Pens and pads (lots of them)...the MAC booth is a godsend but thick-barrelled pens are easier on the hands when you're taking lots of notes; A great, lightweight tote (for all the above)

Makeup Must-haves: Lots of lip balm and treatments (Einstein Lip Theory, Z. Bigatti Re-Storation Lip Pout and Re-Storation Lip Envy, Damage Reveral Lip Treatment by Patricia Wexler, M.D., ANEW Clinical plump & Smooth by Avon), Hair products (Redken, Got2B, Warren Tricomi, Aveda, Bumble & Bumble), great brushes, and a hair straightener by Maxius.
Eye shadow that won't run, crease, or quit: Stila, Trish McEvoy, Laura Mercier, NARS, MAC)
Blush that won't run, crease, or quit (Boots No.7, Tarte, Jillian Dempsey for Avon). A great foundation and base that won't run, crease, or quit: Clarins Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch, Make Up For Ever Matte Velvet, Anew Age Transforming Foundation, Biotherm Light!). A great Mascara that won't run, flake, or fade: best of the best: Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Dior, Bourjois, Clinique...Q-Tips!....Great Hand and Body Creams (Zia Age-Defying Hand Treatment, Essie Smoothies, Lady Primrose Royal Extract Body Creme, Phytomer BodyRexlax).

Food: Thanks to DHL in the tents for the coffee, I really appreciated it. Still, you've got to eat sometime. If you don't want to leave the tents, and can't squeeze your way into the little "cafe" area inside, seasons past there were sponsors offering power bars, yogurt, mints, etc. This year, we got to look at gorgeous cars, but there wasn't a snack in site. Bring your own water, too. These are still given out, but bring your own water bottle or juice pack, if you want to be sure you are properly hydrated.

Business Cards: I can't believe how many people don't have them (or enough of them) for Fashion Week!

...Michael from New Jersey, a firefighter and Fashion Week Security Guard --and ALL the security guards and service personnel who are polite and patient (you guys have a rough job, and we all know it)! ...and Michael....definitely do enter yourself as a model for the next fire-fighters calender...you'll be a hunky hit!

DEFINITELY DITCH:

Overuse of the word "chicettes," chicas," "fashionistas" and "fabulous" (once or twice is ok but "gag me" when it's used more often)

Non-essential guests who get great seats, while members of the press and the buyers are standing in the back. Also impossibly long standing room lines that are first come first served. Suggestion to IMG: Why not let working press (who paid for the ability to report on the shows) move up to the front of the standing room line if they do not have assigned seats and the standing room line is very long? Press need to get in to to their jobs more than the merely curious do.

The ("new") idea that "by invitation only" (and you didn't get one) means you are apparently less "fabulous" than some other folks, while you are in full view of them (and a sign that says "be fabulous").

Daily suites once open to all with creds, now mystifying if you didn't get the "missive"

Internet writers who report on shows and parties as a clique of cronies, pretending that they were flooded with invitations (but only one person really gets in and files a report for all the others "as-if" ). Sharing info is ok, but please keep the internet credible and honest, and say your content is second hand.

Hotel lobbies where a "fash week" invitation gets you through to the elevators or else, you're left out in the cold.

Cold Weather...can't wait for Spring!

Some Final Thoughts On Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007:

Fashion week is like a wedding: it brings out the best, and the worst, in the best in people. Mostly it brings out the best in them...but there are always a few exceptions. There are new connections to be made, and the type of instant bonding that takes place when you're all in the same place and situation, together. Easy laughter over a drink or a shared seat in the Lycra Lounge. Alas, there are also attendees who feel more "entitled" than others. they are rude and pushy. They take other people's assigned seats and refuse to move. Some even steal products out of goodie bags that or take entire bags that don't belong to them. We're not just talking one thing or one bag....-I saw a man literally take an ENTIRE ROW of little bags off the back row at a major show! How many beauty products or T-shirts could you really need?

And, while my own visibility continues to grow, I'm still aware that the fashion week I experience as a member of the Internet press is different from that of the very high profile press. I'm in the majority of journalists who attend to do a job, and pass the information on to people who will probably never get closer to the tents than seeing them on TV. We do not arrive in furs and limo at the last minute, waving an invite with a seat assignment already on it (front row, or second row at the very worst). We do not walk directly to our seats...we wait..and wait...and wait some more. We do have a shared experience with the "Annas" and "Patricks" and other "must-have" front-row faces, though: we are united in our interest in being part of the experience, and viewing the newest clothes and trends.

I feel fortunate to receive press credentials to cover these shows as I have done for a number of seasons (I believe that I was one of the first Internet writers to receive credentials). I feel even more fortunate that I have a network of related professionals who know my work, understand the power of the Internet (and the power of my international audience), and respect my professionalism,. Due to them, I was able to cover more of backstage than ever before. My sincere appreciation to all of you that made it possible to pass information and experiences on to my readers.

My writing is always first-hand. If I don't experience something, I don't pretend that I did, just to boost ratings or readers. My style is 100% "up-close-and-personal." So....to the designers and sponsors who don't know me or are not sure they need my online coverage need to, let me show you what I can do. If you, or any of your assistants/friends/staff/colleagues/publicists/clients read The Advice Sisters through this blog, my web site, the What Works Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion Review columns, my bi-monthly Enews, or my Myspace.com page and like what has been written about other designers, maybe next year I will get close enough to your clothes, products or services to report on them! Please contact me and put me on your media list.

See you NEXT season!

Gustavo Arango-Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

I was really excited to attend the Gustavo Arango show at the Altman Building Saturday afternoon, February 3rd, because I was invited backstage and one of my faves, AVEDA, was doing the hair and the makeup on this show. The backstage area at the Altman building is really spacious compared to the tents, and it was easy to spot and interview Rudy Miles, AVEDA Global Face Color Artist, and others from the Aveda Makeup Team.

Gustavo Arango designs glam clothes for glamorous women, especially Latina woman, so the look for this show was inspired by Hollywood glamour of the 1920's, but not quite as controlled or "done" (check out the model in the photo, below):

The makeup for this show was completely modern, dressed up, but, as Rudy Miles put it, "still whimsical." I called it diva with a slightly "dirty-girl" attitude. A polished, finished face and, like the strong eyes at Alice Roi and Alexander Herchcovitch, Rudy Miles made the focal point the eyes. He ringed them completely in a slightly metallic, deep, smoked blue called "Blue Bell." This color will be available from AVEDA for Fall, 2007. The deep, blue eye look really went well with the soft evening gowns and subdued colors for Fall from Gustavo Arango's collection. To finish the look, Rudy applied a lip liner all over the model's lips, first, and then applied a berry gloss that gave the lips what I like to call a "moistly-matte" look. It's matte, but not that old-fashioned dry that we are used to seeing with matte products. The cheeks were burgundy and berry, but applied in a new way: arched around the forehead and to the cheeks, instead of up from the apples. "It's all about color and technique," explained Rudy. And, as many other makeup artists have always advised me to pass on to you, my readers, this is only makeup. You can always remove it if you don't like the way it looks...so don't be afraid to experiment! Rudy Miles is shown below, holding some new "Petal Essence Accents" eye/blush trios for Fall, 2007 . Rudy said he used to be a teen model (and he's still not only photogenic, but very charming!).

I also spoke to Jon Reyman and his AVEDA hair team. Since the inspiration was the 1920's pin curls and finger waves that define that era's Hollywood glam style, the model's hair was set in pin curls and then loosely pinned in the back to produce a modern, Raphaelite-styled bob. This stunning look was romantic and youthful, but not too "set" in place. The models really did look angelic, walking down the runway. I don't have a list of all the products used but I will get it and add the details to my photo-essay feature, soon (check the Advice Sisters FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in the coming weeks for all the latest Fashion Week and advicesisters content). ). I do know tow of the products used were Air Control, an environmentally-friendly hair spray, and Pure Abundance Hair Potion to add texture and volume to a model's hair if she needed it. Jon also explained that AVEDA was being much more selective in the number of shows they were doing this Fashion Week season. The reason? Aveda puts their proverbial money where there mouths are. They will only work with designers that are in sync with AVEDA's earth-friendly mission and philosophy: http://www.aveda.com/customerservice/ourmission.tmpl

The makeup artists and hair stylists are working on a short time frame on lots of models at the same time. They have to answer the same, endless questions over and over again. Even so, to a person, all of the backstage teams have been gracious and responsive to me as a writer and reporter. The AVEDA staff in particular were so nice to be around! They seemed to be enjoying their jobs, and their colleagues (special thanks to makeup artist TERRY whose husband was also backstage, on the "hair" team). I didn't interview the team from Pritti Organix Nail Salon, but they did the manicures.

Gustavo Arango came by to talk to Jon for a moment. I was too tongue-tied to introduce myself, but the designer, outwardly very calm, said he hadn't slept much the night before the show (I can just imagine!). He needn't have worried since the collection, although body conscious, was beautiful and quite wearable, even for non-models. Mr. Arango, born in Colombia and raised in Puerto Rico, studied in New York at F.I.T., subsequently working as a fashion designer for Pierre Balmain and then launching his own collection. An interesting but sad note is that the designer's apartment was destroyed during the terrorist attack on the World Trade Center on September 11th. He moved back to Puerto Rico. His collection now is inspired by the exotic beauty of Puerto Rico, and the urban chic of New York. The clothes moved with the body, especially the evening gowns in chiffon and silk charmeuse that were accented with beads in many cases. One I particularly liked was a slate silk charmeuse gown with lizard straps. Shoes were high, high, and higher, from Beverly Feldman and La Favorita. I don't know what the fashionistas will say about the collection, but my personal opinion is that Gustavo Arango designs to make every woman look beautiful, no matter what her age or features.

Check out my "how to do the look" with AVEDA products (coming soon on the advice sisters web site linked from our FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html