Spring/Summer '08- Moda Mahattan, Fame, Accessories the Show-What's New?

This week, The Javits Convention Center in New York is home to three professional trade shows produced exclusively for the fashion retail trade. Accessories The Show, Moda Manhattan (ready to wear) and Fame (Junior, Young Contemporary) , showcasing more than 3,000 juried collections of accessories and Ready to wear fashions for Spring/ Summer 2008. The organizer is Business Journals Inc (BJI), a business media company producing 5 business-to-business magazines, 8 trade shows, and seminars and web sites.

When you walk into the shows, the sheer size and variety is nearly overwhelming. The three shows running together take up 90,000 square feet of the convention center. It's hard to imagine that the first show in January of 1998 had just 150 booths. It takes hours to walk even one show, and days to really do it right. While the Fame , Moda Manhattan and Accessories shows are specifically for buyers who want to find the newest and best items for their stores, as a member of the press, I also get the opportunity to see and share trends. It's the ultimate window shop! I get a chance to see the same trends as the buyers, and I always find a few, new and nifty companies that I will feature in this Blog, the Advice Sisters Enews, and of course, in the Advice Sisters monthly "What Works" Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion review columns.

Last season, for example I met Susan Brandt of Anntelle Jewelry. Her wonderful jewelry was reviewed in our December/Holiday 2007 What Works Column, and there are also some pieces in our Current (January/February 2008) What Works column. The designs are lovely, and reasonably priced. We will be reviewing more Anntelle in our March/April and upcoming columns as well.

And, I also met Headband Designer Rebecca Michaels of Violet Love, who designs soft, stretchy, versatile, fabric headbands in a dizzying variety of designs. We will be reviewing the latest and greatest--the Organic Line of Headbands - ECO by VL, made from eco-conscious bamboo fibers, in our March/April What Works column.

Of course, it is nice to take a break when you're up on your feet for hours. Fortunately for show attendees, there was a Jose Cuervo Lounge where guests could enjoy a margarita and meet lifestyle professional, author and Food Network chef, Sandra Lee. She was there to dish secrets to making meals simple, and to greet her loyal fans. I didn't have the time to wait to have Sandra sign a poster or bottle of Cuervo Gold (and I really would have prized that bottle of tequila), but I did take this photo. FYI: Jose Cuervo isn't just the name of a tequlia, he was a real person. Jose was granted a license in the 1700's, from King Carlos IV in Spain, to commercially produce Tequila. After one, small, but very delicious, Margarita (I did have to work, after all) I went back on the floor. I walked, and walked, and walked, and talked, and looked.

I came across Craig Williams and his Kakadu Traders Hats from Australia. These fantastic hats for men and women come in a variety of colors, fabrics and styles. One I particularly like is called "Florentine." It may be difficult to see from the photo, but the super-feminine, Florentine women's hat in beige has a lacy insert that makes this "down under" hat a hit in the big city as well as for Western weddings. "Cheetah" has a wide, canvas, band of "animal" print -- but it's a ventilating mesh to keep you cool, too. Keeping the sun off your face while making a fashion statement is a definite thumbs up! We hope to bring you a review in the March/April What Works column.



Another trend I like because it is so much fun are the bright, soft, flowing, silky, scarf-top "fashions from the Aris Ai line shown here with one of the Shennel Trading Corporation's owner.



I'm happy to report that for Spring/Summer 2008, the outlook is bright, bold, colorful and cheery. Orange, red, yellow, bright green, bright blue, white, and turquoise were everywhere, and subdued, brown, grey, black and brown was hardly in sight. Sequins, chains, beading, ethnic designs, flowers, and lots of whimsical accessories will be in your stores and will make you smile. I'm sure I must have been a raccoon in my last life because they love shiny objects. Cubic Zirconia, gold chains, and Swarovski crystals adorned everything from tank tops to tote bags, belts to baggage tags. I wish I had unlimited funds, because my closet would be full of these precious, shiny objects! Fashions ran the gamut from flowing tunics to tight fitting stretchy tops, but I didn't see anything that looks amazing different from last years' "must-haves." You'll be in the know if you wear bright colors, animal or ethnic prints, beaded items, caftans and tunics, floral prints, stripes, belted dresses and coats, retro/vintage, and the ever-present, denim. The chances are if you purchased bright, or white, last year, it'll still work this year, too....but trust me...when you see the fashions, jewelry and accessories flooding the stores in the very near future, you'll want to add at least a few new items to your wardrobe and accessories drawers!

I can't wait for Spring!

Ellen Tracy-Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

I am excited to be going to the Bill Blass runway show this morning but I'm running late! Last night I attended the Ellen Tracy runway show, so I'll write about that show first.

I love Ellen Tracy clothes. The sophisticated, classic shapes are the darlings of fashionable working women of all ages. Beautifully constructed of great fabrics, with an eye to detail...how could you not love them! FYI: I always thought that Ellen Tracy was a woman, but I learned that the company was started in 1949 as a blouse company by a man--Herbert Gallen. He hired Linda Allard who eventually became Ellen Tracy's Design Director. Her name was added to the Ellen Tracy label in 1984. COMPANY, a line for weekend and dress-down-day clothes, was started in 1991. Confused? Now George Collins Sharp is Vice President of Design Ellen Tracy and he was backstage at the show, of course. I took a few photos of him (check the Advice Sisters Features Pagehttp://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in a few weeks to see links to my photo-essay features on Fashion Week).
My first stop was backstage, to watch NARS makeup artist James Boehmer explain his concept for the show. Here's the model, TAO. She's beautiful without any makeup, but this look was particularly flattering and ladylike. James explained that while there was "nothing special" in terms of a theme for the makeup for Ellen Tracy, he wanted to make it elegant. He said he was inspired (a bit) by the Robert Palmer girl and Helmut Newton but in a more modern way, without the harsh angles and deep blush. The clothes reminded James of YSL "Le Smoking Collection" and so he wanted to have a strong eye AND lip--aggressive but elegant makeup. Interestingly though, here's no blush at all in this look. James simply added a bit of highlighter put high on cheekbones so that the face glows a bit when the model turns. Again, the look is all about color and technique. The eye makeup goes all the way into the brows, but all the harsh lines are removed by blending, blending and more blending! The eye makeup is really several different colors (plus a smudged and blended black eye pencil) James used a Duo Cream Eyeshadow: "Madagascar" and blended it, blended, it and then applied "Zardoz" and blended it, blended it, and blended it. The cream duo is a sheer formula created by NARS to use alone, or underneath NARS powder eye shadows for more color, depth and intensity. Lots and lots of mascara was also applied and black liner smudged top and bottom (a LOT of smudging). Brows were gelled, but no color was applied. He applied a beautiful, creamy, velvet-matte red brick lip pencil on each model ("Forbidden Red"). He lines Tao's lips first, then filled them in with the pencil. James said that when he was talking to the designer about the makeup for the show, they kept going back and forth about the lips--should it be a stain, or a lipstick. Lipstick definitely won out. The red lip against the creamy, matte skin was the perfect accompaniment to the sweaters, coats, and pants. I'll share more of the actual colors and products plus more photos, in the upcoming Advice Sisters Ellen Tracy/NARS feature.

RAMONA from Bumble & Bumble did the hair--sleek, very tight buns full of product for shine and manageability. Creative Nail design did the manicures--a ladylike, totally sheer, iridescent pink called "Negligee"

This show was really all about city chic, as you can see from this photo of took of beautiful Ajuma striding down the runway, wearing a cinnamon alpaca coat, Cinnamon iridescent taffeta blouse, Mahogany stretch viscose 2/4 sleeve sweater, and softly draping, mahogany crepe pants. I love this warm, Fall color, and it showed up in a variety of pieces, and even in a leather jacket. Another standout was a paprika (bright warm red) angora doubleface jacket worn with mahogany silk mesh sleeveless turtleneck and mahogany stretch stain skinny pants (couldn't get a photo of it--sorry)


There was also lots of city-sleek black which looked particularly great with the classy, elegant makeup and sleek hair. Ellen Tracy showed a number of jaunty fedoras, wide patent leather belts in black and brown, and lots of very large satchels in patent leather. There were knit scarves and tunics, too. One black cashmere cable knit sweater sparkled with a sprinkling of black beads and was worn with a stunning, ivory alpaca coat and black flannell pants with a deep pleat.

Black predominated. No surprise here--black is the uniform of chic women, everywhere. In fact, there were few surprises--just lots of urban chic clothes minus tacky, wacky or weird. Every piece in this Fall 2007 Ellen Tracy collection is something a real person would want to own. It's wearable chic you'll want the minute the collection hits the stores.

Gustavo Arango-Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

I was really excited to attend the Gustavo Arango show at the Altman Building Saturday afternoon, February 3rd, because I was invited backstage and one of my faves, AVEDA, was doing the hair and the makeup on this show. The backstage area at the Altman building is really spacious compared to the tents, and it was easy to spot and interview Rudy Miles, AVEDA Global Face Color Artist, and others from the Aveda Makeup Team.

Gustavo Arango designs glam clothes for glamorous women, especially Latina woman, so the look for this show was inspired by Hollywood glamour of the 1920's, but not quite as controlled or "done" (check out the model in the photo, below):

The makeup for this show was completely modern, dressed up, but, as Rudy Miles put it, "still whimsical." I called it diva with a slightly "dirty-girl" attitude. A polished, finished face and, like the strong eyes at Alice Roi and Alexander Herchcovitch, Rudy Miles made the focal point the eyes. He ringed them completely in a slightly metallic, deep, smoked blue called "Blue Bell." This color will be available from AVEDA for Fall, 2007. The deep, blue eye look really went well with the soft evening gowns and subdued colors for Fall from Gustavo Arango's collection. To finish the look, Rudy applied a lip liner all over the model's lips, first, and then applied a berry gloss that gave the lips what I like to call a "moistly-matte" look. It's matte, but not that old-fashioned dry that we are used to seeing with matte products. The cheeks were burgundy and berry, but applied in a new way: arched around the forehead and to the cheeks, instead of up from the apples. "It's all about color and technique," explained Rudy. And, as many other makeup artists have always advised me to pass on to you, my readers, this is only makeup. You can always remove it if you don't like the way it looks...so don't be afraid to experiment! Rudy Miles is shown below, holding some new "Petal Essence Accents" eye/blush trios for Fall, 2007 . Rudy said he used to be a teen model (and he's still not only photogenic, but very charming!).

I also spoke to Jon Reyman and his AVEDA hair team. Since the inspiration was the 1920's pin curls and finger waves that define that era's Hollywood glam style, the model's hair was set in pin curls and then loosely pinned in the back to produce a modern, Raphaelite-styled bob. This stunning look was romantic and youthful, but not too "set" in place. The models really did look angelic, walking down the runway. I don't have a list of all the products used but I will get it and add the details to my photo-essay feature, soon (check the Advice Sisters FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in the coming weeks for all the latest Fashion Week and advicesisters content). ). I do know tow of the products used were Air Control, an environmentally-friendly hair spray, and Pure Abundance Hair Potion to add texture and volume to a model's hair if she needed it. Jon also explained that AVEDA was being much more selective in the number of shows they were doing this Fashion Week season. The reason? Aveda puts their proverbial money where there mouths are. They will only work with designers that are in sync with AVEDA's earth-friendly mission and philosophy: http://www.aveda.com/customerservice/ourmission.tmpl

The makeup artists and hair stylists are working on a short time frame on lots of models at the same time. They have to answer the same, endless questions over and over again. Even so, to a person, all of the backstage teams have been gracious and responsive to me as a writer and reporter. The AVEDA staff in particular were so nice to be around! They seemed to be enjoying their jobs, and their colleagues (special thanks to makeup artist TERRY whose husband was also backstage, on the "hair" team). I didn't interview the team from Pritti Organix Nail Salon, but they did the manicures.

Gustavo Arango came by to talk to Jon for a moment. I was too tongue-tied to introduce myself, but the designer, outwardly very calm, said he hadn't slept much the night before the show (I can just imagine!). He needn't have worried since the collection, although body conscious, was beautiful and quite wearable, even for non-models. Mr. Arango, born in Colombia and raised in Puerto Rico, studied in New York at F.I.T., subsequently working as a fashion designer for Pierre Balmain and then launching his own collection. An interesting but sad note is that the designer's apartment was destroyed during the terrorist attack on the World Trade Center on September 11th. He moved back to Puerto Rico. His collection now is inspired by the exotic beauty of Puerto Rico, and the urban chic of New York. The clothes moved with the body, especially the evening gowns in chiffon and silk charmeuse that were accented with beads in many cases. One I particularly liked was a slate silk charmeuse gown with lizard straps. Shoes were high, high, and higher, from Beverly Feldman and La Favorita. I don't know what the fashionistas will say about the collection, but my personal opinion is that Gustavo Arango designs to make every woman look beautiful, no matter what her age or features.

Check out my "how to do the look" with AVEDA products (coming soon on the advice sisters web site linked from our FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html

Forget Winter, The Accessories Show & Moda Manhattan Look To Spring/Summer 2007

For the last three season, on the specific day I plan to attend the Moda Manhattan and Accessories the Show at the Javits Center in New York, disaster strikes. This season was no different (could I be jinxed?) but I was determined --before the show closed today, I was going to attend.

The organizer of the Moda Manhattan Show (and I'd guess, Accessories The Show as well) is Business Journals Inc (BJI), a business media company that produces 5 business-to-business magazines, 8 trade shows, and a number of seminars and web sites. They have always been gracious to the press, and attending the Moda Mahattan and the Accessories shows is always a very pleasant experience. Moda Manhattan offers juried, ready-to-wear fashion, while the Accessories Show is the only juried, all-accessories trade event in the entire USA. These shows attract throngs of buyers from speciality stores and boutiques, to department stores, catalogues, and even duty free shops looking to see what's available for the next season in activewear, special occasion/evening, outerwear/coats, suits/ careerwear, dresses, knitwear/sweaters, sportswear, related separates, soft separates, loungewear/sleepwear, fur/leather, and accessories from belts to bags to hats to tons and tons and tons of jewelry in all price points. If you can't spot trends here, you're not looking very hard.

It was pretty cold outside, especially after days of record-breaking warm weather, but I began to "think Spring" as I walked in and heard "Itsy bitsy, teeny weeny, yellow polkadot bikini" blaring out of speakers into the exhibit hall. Once inside and walking the aisles, I wished I was a buyer, because there is a dizzying array of "eye candy" that will soon find its way into stores and I want a lot of it -- now But these are shows for writing orders, not retail sales . Even so, my press badge gives me the opportunity to check out "what's next," and I always find at least a few unique items that I know readers of my Advice Sisters online publications, will want to know about.

For example, Spare Change Jewelry by Designers Erin Walker and Betty Bobrow create reasonably-priced, "stretchy" fashion jewelry (made in Chicago) that supposedly appeals to young girls to teens, but when I saw their CZ rings and necklaces, I realized they have a huge market for women, too. Stacked up on a post were rings made of stretchy rounds of material in various colors, the centerpiece of which was a large, cubic zirconia (and I mean, eye-poppingly large--I'm estimating a 20-carat round). They're obviously fake, and obviously meant to be fun, and they are. What I love about these (besides the fact that they retail for only around $20.00) is that the soft, really stretchy fabric that comprises the "ring" really is "one size fits all." If your fingers are tiny (mine are, and I never get big rings that fit) the "ring" part won't need to stretch much, but if you are like my friend, who has large fingers, the ring easily stretches to fit without pulling or digging into your hand. "You'll forget you have it on" said the woman I met at the booth (I think it was Erin). She was right--it's effortless fashion. Moms and daughters , best friends, even women who are gaining or losing weight can share and wear and get a bit of "bliing" for not a lot of cash. There are matching necklaces, too.

I also liked the Locked by Love bracelets from I.D. Jewelry. The simple, but eye-catching design pairs a corded bracelet with an adjustable slide on both sides for a perfect fit, with two silvery "cuffs." You fasten the bracelet by angling the cuffs and sliding each cuff into one another. There were simple silver ones, heart-shaped ones, and even CZ-studded bracelets in small, medium and large (so men can wear them, too). I thought these Locked to Love bracelets were really unique. Apparently, so do celebrities such as Teri Hatcher, Paris and Nicky Hilton, Kelly Clarkson, Kelly Osbourne, Sylvestor Stallone, and even Ice Cube, just to name a few.

So what else will we be seeing for Spring/Summer 2007? At Moda Mahattan, where there were more than 450 lines exhibited, Trapeze, tent, baby doll, sack dresses in beige, black, brown, navy, mauve, and a bit of soft lemon and lime predominated, with almost no brights at all. Rock "Color, I need color!" I heard a buyer, sigh. And the styles were conservative and subdues, too. Rock star vibe replaces hip hop bling, body-baring fashion is out, and unconstructed, flowing, and perhaps, a bit looser clothes seemed to be the popular offering. But the clothes we saw on the runways during Spring 2007 Olympus Fashion Week were also subdued and covered-up, so none of this was a big surprise. There seemed to be as many long dresses and short ones, and the short ones weren't mico-mini. and few were anything but conservative and definitely not splashy. My general impression was that fashion is just reflecting the mood of the country. The items we'll be seeing for sale in stores are attractive and you'll want to stock up, but I miss the "pop!" and sex appeal of season's past.

The accessories exhibits, on the other hand, were a bright spot, literally and figuratively, and may provide buyers in the stores with excitment, after all. Row upon row, table upon table were laden with embelished and studded belts and bags, large-brimmed hats, and so much jewelry from huge (the size of a fist) crosses and pendants, to diminutive chains dangling a crystal or a dainty bead. One trend I liked was the use of natural material such as mother or pearl and wood, either carved, or added to long chains. Crystals and crystal beads add shine and glitz to otherwise restrained fashions. Flip-flops and sandals with crystals, beads, feathers, and embellishments were popular as well. The red, straw satchel with leather handles and wild, floral print cotton lining from Magid (created expressly for Accessories, the Show and Moda Manhattan) and given to VIPs and press, summed up the exciting feel of the accessories nicely: Bold, functional, bright, and fun to wear.

As I left "Wipeout" was blaring through the speakers. I was exhausted, "wiped out" but glad I'd taken the time to attend, and report on the Spring/Summer '07 trends for you!

Alison