A Fall Makeup Look to Love, Now

Beauty.com celebrity makeup artist Tina Turnbow created the following look for the Lela Rose runway show The designer wanted the beauty look for her collection to be “Jerry Hall meets Park Ave.” Tina chose a teal liner and smudged it around the eyes for a classic look.




. The look is modern, but a refreshing change from the overly-dramatic eyes and lips I saw so much of for Fall, 2008 during Fashion Week earlier this month. This is a look you can love now, and keep into next year! I thought you might like to see it:



Products Used (all NARS Cosmetics)"

Face: Concealer, Foundation, Dolce Vita Blush

Eyes: Kaliste (Teal) Liner, Lili Marlene Single Cream Eyeshadow, Mascara

Lips: Risky Business Lip Gloss, Greek Holiday Lip Gloss

Fashion Week--Must-Haves

In my post of February 1st on this blog I wrote: "for 7 days those of us involved in Fashion Week will live in an altered reality. There will be memorable people to meet, and some who aren't so nice. There will be connections to make, and some that only last for the amount of time you are standing on the line to enter the show. We will know what's coming in fashion, but we can't know what's coming for the next 7 days until we live them.

Fashion Week is over. Every season I've attended, I find the experience to be like a roller-coaster ride. First, there's the anticipation. Then, there's the growing excitement as the first shows reveal a glimpse of our fashion future (for the next season, at least). Mid-week, there's exaustion: "Why am I subjecting myself to the intensity of this?" The intensity continues to build as the shows draw to a close. Who will show us something new and exciting? Whose collection will flop? What other news will affect us? This year, the death of Anna Nicole Smith, and the bitterly cold weather, were two big topics of conversation.

On Friday, after all of the above, I always feel a bit of a let-down as I bid farewell to the tents, my 7-day home-away-from-home. But the title of this blog post is "Fashion Week Must Haves." Here's what I simply couldn't be without --- followed by things I would definitely ditch (if it were up to me), and a few closing thoughts on Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007:

Fashion Week Must-Haves:

Clothes: really warm coat (will definitely get dirty since it will be dragged on floors, spilled on backstage, and rumpled in standing room). Comfortable shoes (heels tend to turn into flats, and then into sneakers as the week goes by) . Gel pads for comfortable shoes (no shoe is really comfortable after you've been standing all day). Layered clothing (you're going to get HOT, and then COLD, and then HOT, and then COLD...)!

Handbag: this is the second season that I've used a Butler Bag to carry all my essentials. It is sturdy, with inside compartments that let you see exactly what is inside without fumbling and fishing. It has seen me through travel, interviews, launch parties, and even a few dinner dates!

Emergency Kit: Tape (for everything from a broken camera to a ripped hem), Batteries (for the two digital cameras, audio voice recorder, and MP3Player I carry), Aleve and Aspirin (for aching feet and bones); Pens and pads (lots of them)...the MAC booth is a godsend but thick-barrelled pens are easier on the hands when you're taking lots of notes; A great, lightweight tote (for all the above)

Makeup Must-haves: Lots of lip balm and treatments (Einstein Lip Theory, Z. Bigatti Re-Storation Lip Pout and Re-Storation Lip Envy, Damage Reveral Lip Treatment by Patricia Wexler, M.D., ANEW Clinical plump & Smooth by Avon), Hair products (Redken, Got2B, Warren Tricomi, Aveda, Bumble & Bumble), great brushes, and a hair straightener by Maxius.
Eye shadow that won't run, crease, or quit: Stila, Trish McEvoy, Laura Mercier, NARS, MAC)
Blush that won't run, crease, or quit (Boots No.7, Tarte, Jillian Dempsey for Avon). A great foundation and base that won't run, crease, or quit: Clarins Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch, Make Up For Ever Matte Velvet, Anew Age Transforming Foundation, Biotherm Light!). A great Mascara that won't run, flake, or fade: best of the best: Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Dior, Bourjois, Clinique...Q-Tips!....Great Hand and Body Creams (Zia Age-Defying Hand Treatment, Essie Smoothies, Lady Primrose Royal Extract Body Creme, Phytomer BodyRexlax).

Food: Thanks to DHL in the tents for the coffee, I really appreciated it. Still, you've got to eat sometime. If you don't want to leave the tents, and can't squeeze your way into the little "cafe" area inside, seasons past there were sponsors offering power bars, yogurt, mints, etc. This year, we got to look at gorgeous cars, but there wasn't a snack in site. Bring your own water, too. These are still given out, but bring your own water bottle or juice pack, if you want to be sure you are properly hydrated.

Business Cards: I can't believe how many people don't have them (or enough of them) for Fashion Week!

...Michael from New Jersey, a firefighter and Fashion Week Security Guard --and ALL the security guards and service personnel who are polite and patient (you guys have a rough job, and we all know it)! ...and Michael....definitely do enter yourself as a model for the next fire-fighters calender...you'll be a hunky hit!

DEFINITELY DITCH:

Overuse of the word "chicettes," chicas," "fashionistas" and "fabulous" (once or twice is ok but "gag me" when it's used more often)

Non-essential guests who get great seats, while members of the press and the buyers are standing in the back. Also impossibly long standing room lines that are first come first served. Suggestion to IMG: Why not let working press (who paid for the ability to report on the shows) move up to the front of the standing room line if they do not have assigned seats and the standing room line is very long? Press need to get in to to their jobs more than the merely curious do.

The ("new") idea that "by invitation only" (and you didn't get one) means you are apparently less "fabulous" than some other folks, while you are in full view of them (and a sign that says "be fabulous").

Daily suites once open to all with creds, now mystifying if you didn't get the "missive"

Internet writers who report on shows and parties as a clique of cronies, pretending that they were flooded with invitations (but only one person really gets in and files a report for all the others "as-if" ). Sharing info is ok, but please keep the internet credible and honest, and say your content is second hand.

Hotel lobbies where a "fash week" invitation gets you through to the elevators or else, you're left out in the cold.

Cold Weather...can't wait for Spring!

Some Final Thoughts On Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007:

Fashion week is like a wedding: it brings out the best, and the worst, in the best in people. Mostly it brings out the best in them...but there are always a few exceptions. There are new connections to be made, and the type of instant bonding that takes place when you're all in the same place and situation, together. Easy laughter over a drink or a shared seat in the Lycra Lounge. Alas, there are also attendees who feel more "entitled" than others. they are rude and pushy. They take other people's assigned seats and refuse to move. Some even steal products out of goodie bags that or take entire bags that don't belong to them. We're not just talking one thing or one bag....-I saw a man literally take an ENTIRE ROW of little bags off the back row at a major show! How many beauty products or T-shirts could you really need?

And, while my own visibility continues to grow, I'm still aware that the fashion week I experience as a member of the Internet press is different from that of the very high profile press. I'm in the majority of journalists who attend to do a job, and pass the information on to people who will probably never get closer to the tents than seeing them on TV. We do not arrive in furs and limo at the last minute, waving an invite with a seat assignment already on it (front row, or second row at the very worst). We do not walk directly to our seats...we wait..and wait...and wait some more. We do have a shared experience with the "Annas" and "Patricks" and other "must-have" front-row faces, though: we are united in our interest in being part of the experience, and viewing the newest clothes and trends.

I feel fortunate to receive press credentials to cover these shows as I have done for a number of seasons (I believe that I was one of the first Internet writers to receive credentials). I feel even more fortunate that I have a network of related professionals who know my work, understand the power of the Internet (and the power of my international audience), and respect my professionalism,. Due to them, I was able to cover more of backstage than ever before. My sincere appreciation to all of you that made it possible to pass information and experiences on to my readers.

My writing is always first-hand. If I don't experience something, I don't pretend that I did, just to boost ratings or readers. My style is 100% "up-close-and-personal." So....to the designers and sponsors who don't know me or are not sure they need my online coverage need to, let me show you what I can do. If you, or any of your assistants/friends/staff/colleagues/publicists/clients read The Advice Sisters through this blog, my web site, the What Works Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion Review columns, my bi-monthly Enews, or my Myspace.com page and like what has been written about other designers, maybe next year I will get close enough to your clothes, products or services to report on them! Please contact me and put me on your media list.

See you NEXT season!

Ellen Tracy-Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

I am excited to be going to the Bill Blass runway show this morning but I'm running late! Last night I attended the Ellen Tracy runway show, so I'll write about that show first.

I love Ellen Tracy clothes. The sophisticated, classic shapes are the darlings of fashionable working women of all ages. Beautifully constructed of great fabrics, with an eye to detail...how could you not love them! FYI: I always thought that Ellen Tracy was a woman, but I learned that the company was started in 1949 as a blouse company by a man--Herbert Gallen. He hired Linda Allard who eventually became Ellen Tracy's Design Director. Her name was added to the Ellen Tracy label in 1984. COMPANY, a line for weekend and dress-down-day clothes, was started in 1991. Confused? Now George Collins Sharp is Vice President of Design Ellen Tracy and he was backstage at the show, of course. I took a few photos of him (check the Advice Sisters Features Pagehttp://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in a few weeks to see links to my photo-essay features on Fashion Week).
My first stop was backstage, to watch NARS makeup artist James Boehmer explain his concept for the show. Here's the model, TAO. She's beautiful without any makeup, but this look was particularly flattering and ladylike. James explained that while there was "nothing special" in terms of a theme for the makeup for Ellen Tracy, he wanted to make it elegant. He said he was inspired (a bit) by the Robert Palmer girl and Helmut Newton but in a more modern way, without the harsh angles and deep blush. The clothes reminded James of YSL "Le Smoking Collection" and so he wanted to have a strong eye AND lip--aggressive but elegant makeup. Interestingly though, here's no blush at all in this look. James simply added a bit of highlighter put high on cheekbones so that the face glows a bit when the model turns. Again, the look is all about color and technique. The eye makeup goes all the way into the brows, but all the harsh lines are removed by blending, blending and more blending! The eye makeup is really several different colors (plus a smudged and blended black eye pencil) James used a Duo Cream Eyeshadow: "Madagascar" and blended it, blended, it and then applied "Zardoz" and blended it, blended it, and blended it. The cream duo is a sheer formula created by NARS to use alone, or underneath NARS powder eye shadows for more color, depth and intensity. Lots and lots of mascara was also applied and black liner smudged top and bottom (a LOT of smudging). Brows were gelled, but no color was applied. He applied a beautiful, creamy, velvet-matte red brick lip pencil on each model ("Forbidden Red"). He lines Tao's lips first, then filled them in with the pencil. James said that when he was talking to the designer about the makeup for the show, they kept going back and forth about the lips--should it be a stain, or a lipstick. Lipstick definitely won out. The red lip against the creamy, matte skin was the perfect accompaniment to the sweaters, coats, and pants. I'll share more of the actual colors and products plus more photos, in the upcoming Advice Sisters Ellen Tracy/NARS feature.

RAMONA from Bumble & Bumble did the hair--sleek, very tight buns full of product for shine and manageability. Creative Nail design did the manicures--a ladylike, totally sheer, iridescent pink called "Negligee"

This show was really all about city chic, as you can see from this photo of took of beautiful Ajuma striding down the runway, wearing a cinnamon alpaca coat, Cinnamon iridescent taffeta blouse, Mahogany stretch viscose 2/4 sleeve sweater, and softly draping, mahogany crepe pants. I love this warm, Fall color, and it showed up in a variety of pieces, and even in a leather jacket. Another standout was a paprika (bright warm red) angora doubleface jacket worn with mahogany silk mesh sleeveless turtleneck and mahogany stretch stain skinny pants (couldn't get a photo of it--sorry)


There was also lots of city-sleek black which looked particularly great with the classy, elegant makeup and sleek hair. Ellen Tracy showed a number of jaunty fedoras, wide patent leather belts in black and brown, and lots of very large satchels in patent leather. There were knit scarves and tunics, too. One black cashmere cable knit sweater sparkled with a sprinkling of black beads and was worn with a stunning, ivory alpaca coat and black flannell pants with a deep pleat.

Black predominated. No surprise here--black is the uniform of chic women, everywhere. In fact, there were few surprises--just lots of urban chic clothes minus tacky, wacky or weird. Every piece in this Fall 2007 Ellen Tracy collection is something a real person would want to own. It's wearable chic you'll want the minute the collection hits the stores.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-ARAKS

I wondered what time the PR staff from People's Revolution had to get up to be at the front of the Altman Building. There they were, and all smiles too, when I arrived at 9:45 A.M. on Super Bowl Sunday. More amazingly, as always, the PR people were beautifully dressed up, even though it was ever chillier today than yesterday and they were sitting right behind the front doors. Since I already knew where backstage was from Gustavo Arango's show on Saturday, I immediately made my way downstairs to the back stage area, to interview James Boehmer, the lead makeup artist for NARS Cosmetics. I met Rachel, my friendly, helpful contact from NARS, and she introduced me to James. I guess I got there a bit later than usual, because many of the models were already "done," but there were still some being made up. James graciously stopped what he was doing to chat with me, stopping our interview only occasionally to check one of the other makeup artists' work.

As you can see from this close-up, this look for ARAKS for Fall is about a balanced, fresh feeling on the entire face. It's not just eyes, or cheeks, or lips. James said the look was inspired by Elizabeth Bennett in Pride and Prejudice (and that was totally in keeping with the romantic nature of the clothes, too). I loved the slightly flushed, "English rose" cheeks and soft pink lip and you will too, it's just about perfect to add some life to your complexion, especially since you'll be wearing a lot of soft and subdued colors this Fall. The Fall ARAKS look is all about the skin...a flawless but fresh face, NARS "Turkish Red" Cream blush and "Desire" pink powder blush adding a hit of color, but not harsh or brash. "Blend, blend, blend" advises James. On Eyes was part of a new shadow duo that won't be available until the end of August, but worth the wait. "Calahari" is a soft brown" that was blended with another new color "Voyage," a soft fawn with a bit of glitter. On lips, NARS"Tempest" lip gloss --a pink with a bit of mauve, but softened so that it will be universally flattering. It looked beautiful on all the models. This is less about "drama" or making a "statement," and more about bringing your own, natural, glowing, beauty. I'll be posting more photos of makeup and hair, and the clothes, of course, shortly on the Advice Sisters web --- check our FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html for all the latest after Fashion Week, along with "do-the-look" makeup instructions, courtesy of NARS.

After speaking with James, I wandered over to Peter Elofsson and his artistic team from RUSK. Peter did the hair for ARAKS last season, too. When I arrived, he was busy using a straightening/smoothing iron on a model. Peter explained that his look for ARAKS was inspired by the elegance of the clothes--a soft of Catherine Deneuve feel, but with more "street" (meaning; texture) in it. You'll see that in my photos. Nearly all of the models had long hair, so the "texture" was added by "bending" the hair a bit (you can see this clearly in my photos, which I'll be using in my photo essays on the Advice Sisters Web Site. Hair had a side part and some models had a tiny silver barette holding a few pieces back to the side. Then, hair was sprayed with a RUSK hair spray to keep it in place, but still swingy. For Fall, Peter says long hair isn't just going to "hang" anymore, but will have a sharper edge and more details.

FYI: Creative Nail design (they did the nails for ARAKS last season, too) did the model's manicures with "Fedora," a very dark polish, and "Decadence," a translucent red.


and the ARAKS collection clothes? Unlike the Spring season's diaphanous clothes, these were more substantial for Fall, with soft movement from rich wools, silk and cotton fabrics. There was some color in this collection, although it was still subdued and mostly dark shades of blue, berry, green, and silver (plus the usual black, ivory, coal, and white) One that I particularly liked was a wool/cotton double face dress with bell sleeves that was in a color called "Night," just a shade lighter than the color of the sky just before all the light dies after the day is over. Another was a coat in a color I'd call "Raspberry" but I think it was called "Gooseberry" in the show description. It was tailored, but with gathering in the back, so it looked dressy, and elegant. A pine silk twill drop shoulder dress with drop puff sleeve was fresh and young, and very pretty. The fashion critics may disagree with me, but the only "miss" for me were the outfits with knickers or shorts, paired with lace-up boots. "Hot pants" or long knickers are "stage-y" and cute for a party, but not flattering on everyone. A cute look that is easy to wear and modern, were the lace-up ankle boots with traditional "oxford" detailing shown with many of the outfits.

Gustavo Arango-Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

I was really excited to attend the Gustavo Arango show at the Altman Building Saturday afternoon, February 3rd, because I was invited backstage and one of my faves, AVEDA, was doing the hair and the makeup on this show. The backstage area at the Altman building is really spacious compared to the tents, and it was easy to spot and interview Rudy Miles, AVEDA Global Face Color Artist, and others from the Aveda Makeup Team.

Gustavo Arango designs glam clothes for glamorous women, especially Latina woman, so the look for this show was inspired by Hollywood glamour of the 1920's, but not quite as controlled or "done" (check out the model in the photo, below):

The makeup for this show was completely modern, dressed up, but, as Rudy Miles put it, "still whimsical." I called it diva with a slightly "dirty-girl" attitude. A polished, finished face and, like the strong eyes at Alice Roi and Alexander Herchcovitch, Rudy Miles made the focal point the eyes. He ringed them completely in a slightly metallic, deep, smoked blue called "Blue Bell." This color will be available from AVEDA for Fall, 2007. The deep, blue eye look really went well with the soft evening gowns and subdued colors for Fall from Gustavo Arango's collection. To finish the look, Rudy applied a lip liner all over the model's lips, first, and then applied a berry gloss that gave the lips what I like to call a "moistly-matte" look. It's matte, but not that old-fashioned dry that we are used to seeing with matte products. The cheeks were burgundy and berry, but applied in a new way: arched around the forehead and to the cheeks, instead of up from the apples. "It's all about color and technique," explained Rudy. And, as many other makeup artists have always advised me to pass on to you, my readers, this is only makeup. You can always remove it if you don't like the way it looks...so don't be afraid to experiment! Rudy Miles is shown below, holding some new "Petal Essence Accents" eye/blush trios for Fall, 2007 . Rudy said he used to be a teen model (and he's still not only photogenic, but very charming!).

I also spoke to Jon Reyman and his AVEDA hair team. Since the inspiration was the 1920's pin curls and finger waves that define that era's Hollywood glam style, the model's hair was set in pin curls and then loosely pinned in the back to produce a modern, Raphaelite-styled bob. This stunning look was romantic and youthful, but not too "set" in place. The models really did look angelic, walking down the runway. I don't have a list of all the products used but I will get it and add the details to my photo-essay feature, soon (check the Advice Sisters FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in the coming weeks for all the latest Fashion Week and advicesisters content). ). I do know tow of the products used were Air Control, an environmentally-friendly hair spray, and Pure Abundance Hair Potion to add texture and volume to a model's hair if she needed it. Jon also explained that AVEDA was being much more selective in the number of shows they were doing this Fashion Week season. The reason? Aveda puts their proverbial money where there mouths are. They will only work with designers that are in sync with AVEDA's earth-friendly mission and philosophy: http://www.aveda.com/customerservice/ourmission.tmpl

The makeup artists and hair stylists are working on a short time frame on lots of models at the same time. They have to answer the same, endless questions over and over again. Even so, to a person, all of the backstage teams have been gracious and responsive to me as a writer and reporter. The AVEDA staff in particular were so nice to be around! They seemed to be enjoying their jobs, and their colleagues (special thanks to makeup artist TERRY whose husband was also backstage, on the "hair" team). I didn't interview the team from Pritti Organix Nail Salon, but they did the manicures.

Gustavo Arango came by to talk to Jon for a moment. I was too tongue-tied to introduce myself, but the designer, outwardly very calm, said he hadn't slept much the night before the show (I can just imagine!). He needn't have worried since the collection, although body conscious, was beautiful and quite wearable, even for non-models. Mr. Arango, born in Colombia and raised in Puerto Rico, studied in New York at F.I.T., subsequently working as a fashion designer for Pierre Balmain and then launching his own collection. An interesting but sad note is that the designer's apartment was destroyed during the terrorist attack on the World Trade Center on September 11th. He moved back to Puerto Rico. His collection now is inspired by the exotic beauty of Puerto Rico, and the urban chic of New York. The clothes moved with the body, especially the evening gowns in chiffon and silk charmeuse that were accented with beads in many cases. One I particularly liked was a slate silk charmeuse gown with lizard straps. Shoes were high, high, and higher, from Beverly Feldman and La Favorita. I don't know what the fashionistas will say about the collection, but my personal opinion is that Gustavo Arango designs to make every woman look beautiful, no matter what her age or features.

Check out my "how to do the look" with AVEDA products (coming soon on the advice sisters web site linked from our FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Alice Ritter

Fashion Week has begun!

My first show was Alice Ritter at the Players Club in the chic, Grammercy Park area. It was cold and of course, I arrived on the wrong side of the Park and had to walk around three sides of it to get to my destination.

Inside, young girls in white T-shirts with the simple Alice Ritter logo in black letters, were all smiles. I got there close to start time (I know from experience that most fashion shows do not really start on time) and noticed the cozy club was already packed with chattering fashionistas. Two Alice Ritter staffers, chattering in melodic tones, in French, were sitting on one of three available couches, on opposite ends. They moved over so I could sit down, and I gratefully sank into the leather couch for the "wait" (which turned out to be about 35 minutes). While sitting, I chatted with a young woman who said she was there as an Assistant Buyer for the Isetan department store in Japan. So many buyers and press (yours truly included) didn't have seat assigments! We were finally ushered into a "great hall" lined with imposing oil paintings of what I presume were the founders or past presidents of the Players Club, squeezing ourselves through a gauntlet behind three rows of tightly packed (and mostly filled) seats. We filed in slowly, and I realized that there was an open seat right in front of where the line ended. The lights were just about to go out so I sat down. Alas, anyone not in the front row had an obstructed view.

But the clothes (from what I could see of them) were worth the wait. Down the runway came the most romantic if "costumy" clothes I've seen in a long time. They Edwardian inspired collection featured the most fantastic cropped jackets with nipped-in waists and long, tiered, flouncy back treatments. These were paired with nicely tailored, wide-legged, pants, and romantic, full skirts. Alice Ritter uses a mixture of woven fabrics, and since it was a Fall collection, there was a lot of substantial wool, heavy cotton, and silk. The colors were extremely austere: black, black and more black, and some grey, olive green, and a bit of "caramel, plus a bunch of blouses and dresses in silky, royal purple fabrics. What added spark was silky shine, and some sparkle or sheen in the fabrics of the jackets and skirts.

A lot of this collection is what I'd call "party" or special event clothes, but not in the sense of a formal evening gown. These are clothes to turn heads, but without a rhinestone or a bead, in sight. A standout was a "dandy's" outfit, mixing masculine and feminine: a pure white blouse with a huge ruffled front and collar of crystal pleats, paired with blakc pants and a fitted jacket. With an outfit this "showy" all you need is a pair of diamond stud earrings, and you're good to go! Another standout were two coats: one was a boxy, black and white tweed mid-length coat with a very large, shawl color. The other, a creamy ivory wool with a funnel neck and large buttons, that seemed very retro (think: Audry Hepburn in Charade).

I didn't go backstage for this one, but the main theme of the hair reminded me of party girl fone to sleep and this is the result in the morning. The hair was a "messy" bun with long pieces or tendrils deliberately falling out of it to the side. It was romantic, but I'd suspect it might be harder to accomplish at home than simply making a bun, and sleeping on it! The makeup was by NARS. I liked the matte, dark rose or warm red lips as the main focal point. I'll try to get the details from NARS and share them later on.