Abaete, Modern Middle Ages for Fall 2008

Abaeté (pronounced ah-BYE-ah-tay), translates roughly to "person of virtue." The Fall 2008 collection had lots to commend it, with a collection both modern, and inspired by ancient history. When I arrived backstage, several hours before showtime, lead hair stylist David Cruz for Redken was already hard at work, smoothing the hair of the first model to create a unique ponytail that looked wonderful on the runway. The AdviceSisters covered Mr. Cruz's backstage work for Redken on the Spring 2008 collection for Abaete , too.

The concept for this show was a low, carefully constructed ponytail. David said he was inspired by Japanese Anime, in which idealized girl characters have wild hair. He said he wanted a return to strong female characters for this show, and the voluminous, ratted ponytail gave a woman both the look of strength, and beauty. The distinctive ponytail he created has lots of texture, and it's wide in teh middle, flat at the top, and comes to a soft point at the bottom. It's strong, but still "girly." Since some of the models were going to wear hoods, the tail had to be quite low, but David said that this ponytail would work high up on the head as well.



This model is getting her nails done while the stylist is doing the first step in the hair style--smoothing and straightening out the entire length of the hair. After Redken product is applied, hair is gathered into the low ponytail, held fast, and then the tail part is "ratted," then smoothed only on the surface with a Mason Pearson brush that has been spritzed with Redken hair spray. A section is carefully wrapped around the foundation of the tail, and held fast with hairpins. The top of the head is sleek, but scrunched up just a bit to be "messy." This is accomplished easily by working fingertips through the top a bit, as if one was sort of scratching her head. The ends around the face are tamed with a smaller, toothbrush-sized brush also spritzed with hairspray. Finally, the "tail" is twisted together at the bottom to form a soft point. It's a beautiful look that you might want to try and copy, at home.

TIP FOR DO IT YOURSELF-ERS. This is a look that seems so simple, but it takes a lot of work to make this ponytail, perfect. It actually took the hair stylists at least 15 minutes to complete, and a fair amount of product to make the ponytail textured and able to keep the volume required. If you want to try it, re-create a similar look using Redken products including Workforce #9 Volumizing Spray, Guts #10 Volume Spray Foam" and if your hair is thin, try Fabricate #3 heat activated texturizer --lots of it, to help make hair, heftier. *the Advice Sisters have reviewed these products in our What Work Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion review columns.

Did they wear nail polish in the Middle Ages? Not likely, but for this show, a sheer beige called "Serenity" (one of Creative Nail Design's most popular colors) was used. The look was shiny, but with just the barest hint of color. Serenity is available in salons right now, so you don't have to wait for fall to get this look yourself.

Ayako, the gracious lead makeup artist for NARS Cosmetics, shared her makeup concept for the show. This is a chart of the complete makeup look. For Fall, this would be really lovely and wearable. It starts with a matte foundation (last year it was all about "dewy" and this year it's as matte as you can make it). The starkness is offset by a burgundyNARS lipstick called "Canaille" or a burnt raspberry lip "Hindu" (depending upon the skintone of the model) was moistly matte beige. The blush was subtle, created with a new NARS color for Fall that will be universally flattering. it's a sheer, rosed pink blush called "Dolce Vita," named after a popular NARS lipstick of the same color. The eyes were created with one half of a brand new Holiday 2008 eye shadow duo called "Isolde." Lids were thickly lined with this sparkling gold powder shadow. The result was sensational on models of all skin tones, adding sparkle for a metallic look, but not glitter. The other side of the shadow duo is a gleaming copper. You'll have to wait to enjoy this duo on your own eyes, however.

Here's the finished look on model, Maria. You can't really see it in this photo, but the gold lids shimmer beautifully without being over-the-top, gaudy. Maria looked amazing!

Abaeté is designer and founder, Laura Poretzky's family name. How fitting that she confided her inspiration for her Fall 2008 show today at Fashion Week was the original Portuguese Abaeté family crest, awarded to her great-great grandfather in the mid-1800's for his service as the President of the Brazilian Senate, and his work as a leading abolitionist. The crest features a gold crown, two stars, a chevron, and at the bottom, a palm tree. The crest is from long ago, but Laura's collection was both ancient and modern, featuring dark and subued colors worthy of an urban Guinevere, in slate blue, black, grey, burgundy and plum. The collection also featured Grecian Drapings and Madame Grey.

courtesy Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week There was texture, lots of soft wool, and metal accents that were "armor" like. But these clothes weren't the only thing that harkened to King Arthur, there were also beautiful (and probably very warm and nice for winter) hoods that looked like the headgear knights used to wear beneath chain mail helmets. These were in luxurious black and grey cashmere, however, so they look both austere, and elegant. And, many of the designs had shield-like or crest-like elements, which looked really cute on the runway. Wearing one "medieval" ornament, such as a top or a skirt, mixed with a traditional jacket, for example, looks fresh and new.

This evening dress reminds me a bit of Medieval tapestry--and check out the intriciate beading and details! The dresses were short, but not as micro-mini as some of the shows. Most were above the knee (or higher) but tights (by Wolford) subdue the effect of a mini, and they also make legs look leaner and more toned.

copyright © 2008 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark. Non-marked photography courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Fashion Week Spring 2008-Abaete

The sun was shining and there was just a bit of a breeze, when I entered the backstage area to check out David Cruz and his Redken team for the Abaeté show. I got there so early that no one was backstage. This was my first show for Spring 200 8, and I was really excited!

Here is a sight virtually no ones sees, the backstage area with literally no one in it yet!

The backstage area didn't stay empty for long, however. Here is hair stylist David Cruz working on his first model of the show. The concept for the hair, he explained, was inspired by the clothes. Elegant, "old Hollywood," with glamorous waves clipped smoothly to the sides of the head, with the rest falling in soft waves, gently crimped with a curling iron. The look was glamorous, but not too "done" and very youthful and modern *(chic, but with a sense of humor). Girls with short hair had it blown out straight. The styles may look effortless, but it it takes patience, at least one extra set of hands to smooth, and then add texture, lots of brushes, and a bunch of Redken products, to make the look come to life. For more information on how to do this look, and what products were used, check our FEATURES page at: http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in mid-September, where I will be listing all the photo features from Fashion Week with full details!



Ayako, from NARS, was the lead on the makeup team. She brought her sweet little dog who sat patiently while everyone cooed and photographed him! (photo left). Once the models arrived, however, it was all business for Ayako, who said her inspiration for the makeup also came form the designer and her clothes-- elegant and youthful, but with just a bit of an "edge," Abaeté's Spring 2008 designs reminded her of Miami, and art deco. For details on the products used and how you can re-create this look at home, check our FEATURES page at: http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in mid-September.


Creative Nail Design is the nail company of the runways and Angie from Creative Nail told me that the company is doing a staggering 50+ shows this season. That's a lot of manicures! French manicures with a bright, cotton candy pink, custom blended for the show, was the manicure style for this show. For details on the products used and what's going to be hot for nails, for Spring 2008, check our FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in mid-September.

I had just a few minutes to check out the clothes, since I couldn't even get standing room by the time I left backstage, but while I was still backstage, viewing the collection while the clothes were still in plastic bags, I saw this black dress with rows of deco crystals. You can't tell from my photo, but the deco-style crystall-ed neckline caught the light and sparkled brilliantly against the black fabric. It was so pretty I couldn't help exclaiming out loud to no one in particular: "I love this dress!" The woman standing next to the dress smiled at me, and said: "I'm the designer." I introduced myself and felt a bit foolish that I didn't recognize her! Many of the clothes in the collection had color-blocked details and I realized that Ayako's assessment of "Miami art deco" was correct! The very pretty and wearable collection featured "ice cream" colors of light turquoise, pink, beige and a hint of black, plus lots of white as background. The lines were simple, tailored, nothing puffy or glittery, except the black dress with the crystals around the neck. The collection wasn't stuffy, but not overly casual. One "resortwear" type outfit features very wide legged, cuffed pants, worn with black flats and white sunglasses--one of the few pants items to be shown.




ALISON


*all text and photos by Alison Blackman Dunham -- copyright © 2007 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® No portion of this content, including illustrations, may be copied or used in any without written permission. Please do not take my work! If you want to use text or photo (with proper credit) please ask for permission first at: advicesisters@advicesisters.net. The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark.