Cynthia Rowley, Rocks it with Redken and Avon

Cynthia Rowley's runway show at the great and glamorous Gotham Hall was one of my favorites last season, and this year didn't disappoint either. I'll talk about the clothes briefly here, but will be adding more about them in a full feature in a few weeks focusing also on the hair (by fabulous REDKEN) and the makeup (a brilliant, new Cynthia Rowley for AVON Fall 2007 Color Collection). I checked to see who is reading this block, and discovered that along with all the readers the Advice Sisters have in English speaking countries, the past few entries in this blog have been translated into a number of languages, the most popular being French, Chinese, German, Japanese, Turkish, Korean, Dutch; Flemish, Arabic, and Greek ! I am flattered that someone would take the time to translate "The Advice Sisters!" If you are visiting this blog, please let me know. Leave a COMMENT! I'd appreciate it.

But back to Cynthia Rowley: As I walked through the backstage area, I spied a group of people with needle and thread, quietly stitching together what seemed to be a 30-foot brunette braid (3o foot braid?!). I was informed by REDKEN lead stylist Rodney Cutler that this giant braid was for the finale of the show. It would be attached to the head of just one model, and the rest of the models would hold it as the walked their last looks down the runway. As they stiched the braids together to make one long chain, it writhed and wiggled like a giant snake emerging from primordial ooze. It was a bit freaky, actually, but looked great on the runway and got murmurs and a few giggles from the audience.

As you might have already guessed, it was braids that were the theme of the hair for the Cynthia Rowley show. Rodney didn't do "pigtail" type braids, but instead, sophisticated, sleek, shiny hair with no part held tight to the head by a number of REDKEN styling products (see a view of the products below). How much and what was used depended upon the texture and length of the model's hair, but as you can see from the photo on the right, all those REDKEN products may each girls' hair sleek and shiny. The finished look was youthful (as are Cynthia Rowley's clothes), but still sophisticated, fresh and pretty, not silly, wacky, or out of place.

Actually, I got the the Gotham Hall early, before my REDKEN contacts arrived, but discovered that most of my contacts from the public relations firm Tractenberg, were already in place at the doors and inside the backstage area (they were handling the PR for AVON and for the press reception for the Cynthia Rowley for AVON Fall 2007 Color Collection) after the show. I was eager to see it.

AVON has several new collections that are quite beautiful, and the one For the Cynthia Rowley show is stunning! You are going to want to buy all o fit. As luck with have it, the lead on the collection, Jillian Dempsey, had just given birth to twins a few days prior, so she had her friend, makeup artist Tina Turnbow do the model's makeup instead. FYI: Tina learned her craft by assisting celebrated makeup artists such as Kay Montano and Pat McGrath, and works with celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Natalie Portman, Anne Hathaway, Julianne Moore, and Joan Allen, among others.

As with many of the makeup looks for Fall, this one for Cynthia Rowley is all about the EYES (are you getting the theme for Fall, 2007 from all these blog entries?) . I had the opportunity to see Tina apply the makeup to the first model and explain it to her assistants. I was sitting down among them (maybe not such a good idea, but I knew I'd been on my feet for hours, and it was a free chair). At one point, Tina suddenly stopped what she was doing, and looked right at me : "Who are YOU?" she said in a voice that reminded me of the Caterpillar on the Hookah in Alice in Wonderland. "Uh, Oh, I'm a writer and reporter" I mumbled (as humble as Dorothy adressing the Wizard). Thankfully, one of the lovely women from Tractenberg confirmed my reason for being there and once the mystery was cleared up. Tina went right back to work, and I went right back to work too, taking notes!

The new, AVON Cynthia Rowley makeup collection is remarkable, not just for it's wearable and quite beautiful palette, but also because it translated uniquely to each model. I'm not going give away the secrets to getting this beautiful Cynthia Rowley makeup look from AVON today....you'll have to wait until my feature on the show is posted on the Advice Sisters Web Site http://www.advicesisters.net....but I will say that the collection will be available through AVON for Fall 2007 and it will work it's magic for you as well *Watch my FEATURES PAGE on advicesisters.net http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html for a complete description of how to get the goods, and do the look (coming in a few weeks).

The look was all about a fresh face (no foundation, just a bit of brightening powder, concealer and a dusting of face powder if necessary). As with most of the shows I've seen this week, the focus is all on the eyes. This time, in a palette of violet and grey with some shimmer and lots of mascara. The model I quickly snapped in the photo above is a thousand times more beautiful than this photo shows, but it gives you a great look at the eyes. Note that the lips are pink and very, very shiny. The new Cynthia Rowley Color Collection for AVON lip gloss is unbelievable!a definite must have for your Fall makeup wardrobe.

As you can see from the model above, the eyes are the thing. The look was all about a fresh face (no foundation, just a bit of brightening powder, concealer and a dusting of face powder if necessary). Eyes were done in a palette of violet and grey (with some shimmer) and lots of mascara. There was just a bit of pink blush to warm up the face. The model I quickly snapped in the photo above is much more beautiful than this photo shows, but it gives you a great look at the eyes. Note that the lips are pink and very, very shiny. The new Cynthia Rowley Color Collection for AVON lip gloss is unbelievable!a definite "must have" for your Fall makeup wardrobe.

Bill Blass --Bravo! Fall Fashion Week 2007

Most (if not all) of the models in the Bill Blass show were too young to recognize their struttin' music--a fantastic song from the 1940's: "Sing Sing Sing" by Benny Goodman. This vintage swing song with a driving drum beat, was made undeniably modern in a remix by Johnny Dynell featuring an even heavier drum beat that continued throughout the entire show: "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!" The sound added burlesque irreverence to the feminine Fall 2007 fashions.

As we'd see when the lights came up and a "curtain" featuring the iconic Bill Blass logo parted, Michael Vollbracht's homage to the past and view of Fall 2007 was also a mix of vintage-made-modern, but with a touch of rebellion. A large curtain (with the iconic Bill Blass Logo) parted, and models brashly strode right down the middle of the runway: "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!"

The beat may have been largely"stripper," but these were not trashy clothes. This label is attracting younger women as well as loyal followers who are (now a bit older than when they first fell in love with Bill Blass. We saw beautifully tailored day clothes, elegant, red-carpet-worthy evening gowns, in colors (yes, colors)! Deep green, moss green, gold, cinnamon, olive green, cocoa, indigo blue, champagne, coral...! Of course there was plenty of classic black, too. "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!"




In this photo I took at the end of the show, when the models did their final walks down the runway, pausing to form little groups and then becoming animated (a rarity on runways) and walking backstage together. The clothes are so ladylike, but if you look closer, there's an edge to them. This is not your mother's Bill Blass, but it's still recognizable. There was something very delicate and feminine about the collection--any modern woman would look beautiful in classic basic black cocktail and evening dresses and nicely tailored separates for daytime. There were a few interesting departures from classic, such as a white feathered embroidered cocktail dress that reminded me of a flapper's dress from the 1920's. Another great note: the 50's-style hair, parted on one side and piled up in huge buns by Jimmy Paul for Bumble & Bumble that immediately felt modern 50's to me--a nod to Tippi Hedren in Hitchcock's "The Birds" re-mixed for 2007. I couldn't see the makeup because I wasn't backstage or up close, but the program notes tell me the MAC Cosmetics pro team created this look, so I will get more information for a feature, later on. "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!"

Although there has been a lot of attention paid to furs--whether to wear them or not, furs were in this show and there have been more than ever on the runways (and no PETA protestors in sight). Blass also followed the trend of adding heavy tights (everywhere on the runways).

Furs were from Global Fur Group, Handbags from Carlos Falchi. Shoes, by Bill Blass.

Here is the designer with some of his models at the end of the show. I thought it was interesting that in a few places the notes say "Halston-like" and "Norrell-like. Michael Vollbracht apparently wanted to take inspiration from the past (although he had plenty that was uniquely his) and, as it says in the program notes that he was inspired by Halston and Norrell because: "I fell in love (Norrell's) sequined mermaids years and years ago when I was a very young designer and about Halston: "'because his simple philosophy looks so good in this era of over-designing. " And of Bill Blass: "it is my job to knock him off."

"Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!!!!!"

Mini goodie-bags held Bill Blass Eau de Parfum (*watch the Advice Sisters upcoming What Works column for more on this simply divine scent)!

Ellen Tracy-Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

I am excited to be going to the Bill Blass runway show this morning but I'm running late! Last night I attended the Ellen Tracy runway show, so I'll write about that show first.

I love Ellen Tracy clothes. The sophisticated, classic shapes are the darlings of fashionable working women of all ages. Beautifully constructed of great fabrics, with an eye to detail...how could you not love them! FYI: I always thought that Ellen Tracy was a woman, but I learned that the company was started in 1949 as a blouse company by a man--Herbert Gallen. He hired Linda Allard who eventually became Ellen Tracy's Design Director. Her name was added to the Ellen Tracy label in 1984. COMPANY, a line for weekend and dress-down-day clothes, was started in 1991. Confused? Now George Collins Sharp is Vice President of Design Ellen Tracy and he was backstage at the show, of course. I took a few photos of him (check the Advice Sisters Features Pagehttp://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in a few weeks to see links to my photo-essay features on Fashion Week).
My first stop was backstage, to watch NARS makeup artist James Boehmer explain his concept for the show. Here's the model, TAO. She's beautiful without any makeup, but this look was particularly flattering and ladylike. James explained that while there was "nothing special" in terms of a theme for the makeup for Ellen Tracy, he wanted to make it elegant. He said he was inspired (a bit) by the Robert Palmer girl and Helmut Newton but in a more modern way, without the harsh angles and deep blush. The clothes reminded James of YSL "Le Smoking Collection" and so he wanted to have a strong eye AND lip--aggressive but elegant makeup. Interestingly though, here's no blush at all in this look. James simply added a bit of highlighter put high on cheekbones so that the face glows a bit when the model turns. Again, the look is all about color and technique. The eye makeup goes all the way into the brows, but all the harsh lines are removed by blending, blending and more blending! The eye makeup is really several different colors (plus a smudged and blended black eye pencil) James used a Duo Cream Eyeshadow: "Madagascar" and blended it, blended, it and then applied "Zardoz" and blended it, blended it, and blended it. The cream duo is a sheer formula created by NARS to use alone, or underneath NARS powder eye shadows for more color, depth and intensity. Lots and lots of mascara was also applied and black liner smudged top and bottom (a LOT of smudging). Brows were gelled, but no color was applied. He applied a beautiful, creamy, velvet-matte red brick lip pencil on each model ("Forbidden Red"). He lines Tao's lips first, then filled them in with the pencil. James said that when he was talking to the designer about the makeup for the show, they kept going back and forth about the lips--should it be a stain, or a lipstick. Lipstick definitely won out. The red lip against the creamy, matte skin was the perfect accompaniment to the sweaters, coats, and pants. I'll share more of the actual colors and products plus more photos, in the upcoming Advice Sisters Ellen Tracy/NARS feature.

RAMONA from Bumble & Bumble did the hair--sleek, very tight buns full of product for shine and manageability. Creative Nail design did the manicures--a ladylike, totally sheer, iridescent pink called "Negligee"

This show was really all about city chic, as you can see from this photo of took of beautiful Ajuma striding down the runway, wearing a cinnamon alpaca coat, Cinnamon iridescent taffeta blouse, Mahogany stretch viscose 2/4 sleeve sweater, and softly draping, mahogany crepe pants. I love this warm, Fall color, and it showed up in a variety of pieces, and even in a leather jacket. Another standout was a paprika (bright warm red) angora doubleface jacket worn with mahogany silk mesh sleeveless turtleneck and mahogany stretch stain skinny pants (couldn't get a photo of it--sorry)


There was also lots of city-sleek black which looked particularly great with the classy, elegant makeup and sleek hair. Ellen Tracy showed a number of jaunty fedoras, wide patent leather belts in black and brown, and lots of very large satchels in patent leather. There were knit scarves and tunics, too. One black cashmere cable knit sweater sparkled with a sprinkling of black beads and was worn with a stunning, ivory alpaca coat and black flannell pants with a deep pleat.

Black predominated. No surprise here--black is the uniform of chic women, everywhere. In fact, there were few surprises--just lots of urban chic clothes minus tacky, wacky or weird. Every piece in this Fall 2007 Ellen Tracy collection is something a real person would want to own. It's wearable chic you'll want the minute the collection hits the stores.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Alice Roi

It was cold. Very cold. Too cold. I wondered whether or not I should dress for fashion's sake, or to stay warm. The emotional side of me screamed "you've got to look good!" The practical side said: "It is only Saturday and Fashion Week has really just begun...stay warm and don't get sick."

I opted for a compromise: a robin's egg blue wool jacket reversed with peach, and a camisole that complimented those colors. Pants and black sneakers (I knew I was going to be on my feet from 9am-11pm) and an old down jacket that could be dumped on the floor backstage (so I could juggle my handbag, pen and paper, voice recorder and two cameras without holding a jacket, too).

Anyway, the first stop was Alice Roi. I got there fairly early which meant I got to see Stephane Marais for Bourjois do the model's "model" for all the other Bourjois makeup artists. I will be doing full features with photos on this show in the next few weeks, but I'll give you a preview: the look is all about the eyes. A fresh face and nude, moist lips, but the focus is all on the eyes. Stephane used grey and black metallic and smudged and smoothed and dabbed and smudged...all around the model's eyes. The look was a as if you'd used a lot of non-waterproof eye liner and shadows, and didn't wash it off before bedtime and you rubbed your eyes in teh night. The effect would be soft and smudged around your eyes--but obviously, a much more controlled version walked down the runway! When I spoke to the gracious Celine from Bourjois, she said that the makeup artists were using existing Bourjois products, which means you can "get the look" now if you want to jump ahead a season.

Stephane explained that the look was to compliment Alice Roi's theme and clothes, which was inspired by the beloved book about a little French girl: Madeline (my favorite book growing up). So the makeup was youthful and fresh, but with the deep, smoky eye, a not-so-innocent schoolgirl!

The hair, by Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble, was interesting. The models were wearing ponytail extensions made of soft strips of frosted plastic that looked to me like the fringes in a car wash. Hair was pulled sleekly back in mid-crown ponytails. I'll be writing more about the hair on the Advice Sisters Web Site http://www.advicesisters.net/ in the next few weeks. An interesting note was that three of the models (only three) wore short, black wigs. That added a nice balance to the sweetness of the "Madeline" vibe.

I wasn't staying for the show, because I was going to visit backstage at Alexander Herchcovitch, but I did get a sneak peek at the clothes. As yesterday, the colors were austere: black, more black, and black, and some brown and a bit of off-white. There were a lot of chunky knits, worn with (get this): Knee socks and platform shoes of various types. It channeled "Madeline" but more in a Shinjuku punk than very young child. There were some small plaid patterns, primarily in brown tones, some paired with lacy tops to add additional softness. The one bright spot was a sleeveless, swingy, micro-mini dress in a riot of acid pink, orange, white and topped and trimmed with black that looked like something I wore proudly in the 60's. I don't know where it fit into Fall, but it was fun, flirty, and a welcome relief from dark neutrals.


I arrived at the appointed time for Alexander Herchcovitch and was told to come back in half and hour. Nearly two hours later (it was an early call) I finally managed to get backstage to interview the MAC makeup artists and check out the hair. I am off to ARAKS this morning and will write about this show, as well as Gustavo Arrango, and Venexiana, when I get home tonight. It is Superbowl Sunday, but you, my readers, come first!

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Akiko Ogawa

Later in the day, I went to the Akiko Ogawa runway show in the tents. I got there early, and saw my friend Ester Nash on line for another show. How nice to see her! She's such a lovely woman.

As I was checking in for Akiko Ogawa, I ran into another person I know--Steven Bender. He now has his own PR company and is doing lots of interesting things. We had time to catch up for a few minutes. He's one of the "nice guys," too.

But on to the show: the theme is "the masculine look of a British rock star softened into feminine form and laced with elements of 'wabi sabi' (the distinctily Japanese aesthetic of refined rusticity and elegant simplicity considered the highly prized qualities in the traditional arts).

To break that down, the clothes were a mixture of punk bluntness, and soft silk kimono..a perfect fusion of Japanese downtown girls, with geisha elements. Scottish tartan (mostly with green and blue) showed up in pleated skirts, paired with rock-star black.

The audience and the clothes seem "youthful" but in truth, I could see nearly anyone taking pieces from the 39 pieces shown in this collection and making them work. There were skinny pants, mostly in black, along with charcoal gray, but there was some color. The pink used as accents apparently was inspired by the flower of the peony tree. One of the most beautiful pieces was a deep pink kimono tunic, worn with a low-slung Swarovski crystal studded belt. The most beautiful pieces were these silky kimono-styles, worn as dresses and tunics. The models seemed to float down the runway in these. I liked the oversized obi" type sashes that added a distinctly Japanese flair. I also particularly liked a black cropped "military" type jacket with large crystal "buttons" that added sparkle, and some of the jackets and sweaters with faux-fur trim. To add that punk attitude, a variety of platform black leather shoes prevailed. Add a chunky boot to a tartan skirt and you've got just the right mix.

The collection is fun, eye catching, and a welcome relief from the austere. Noda Norikata at MAO did strong, smoky eyes and pale faces. Hair, from Dennis Lanni for Bumble & Bumble was stark -- a sort of modern Louise Brooks short black bob with thick bangs for most of the models. This added a distinct rock star meets the East sensibility that went well with the clothes.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Alice Ritter

Fashion Week has begun!

My first show was Alice Ritter at the Players Club in the chic, Grammercy Park area. It was cold and of course, I arrived on the wrong side of the Park and had to walk around three sides of it to get to my destination.

Inside, young girls in white T-shirts with the simple Alice Ritter logo in black letters, were all smiles. I got there close to start time (I know from experience that most fashion shows do not really start on time) and noticed the cozy club was already packed with chattering fashionistas. Two Alice Ritter staffers, chattering in melodic tones, in French, were sitting on one of three available couches, on opposite ends. They moved over so I could sit down, and I gratefully sank into the leather couch for the "wait" (which turned out to be about 35 minutes). While sitting, I chatted with a young woman who said she was there as an Assistant Buyer for the Isetan department store in Japan. So many buyers and press (yours truly included) didn't have seat assigments! We were finally ushered into a "great hall" lined with imposing oil paintings of what I presume were the founders or past presidents of the Players Club, squeezing ourselves through a gauntlet behind three rows of tightly packed (and mostly filled) seats. We filed in slowly, and I realized that there was an open seat right in front of where the line ended. The lights were just about to go out so I sat down. Alas, anyone not in the front row had an obstructed view.

But the clothes (from what I could see of them) were worth the wait. Down the runway came the most romantic if "costumy" clothes I've seen in a long time. They Edwardian inspired collection featured the most fantastic cropped jackets with nipped-in waists and long, tiered, flouncy back treatments. These were paired with nicely tailored, wide-legged, pants, and romantic, full skirts. Alice Ritter uses a mixture of woven fabrics, and since it was a Fall collection, there was a lot of substantial wool, heavy cotton, and silk. The colors were extremely austere: black, black and more black, and some grey, olive green, and a bit of "caramel, plus a bunch of blouses and dresses in silky, royal purple fabrics. What added spark was silky shine, and some sparkle or sheen in the fabrics of the jackets and skirts.

A lot of this collection is what I'd call "party" or special event clothes, but not in the sense of a formal evening gown. These are clothes to turn heads, but without a rhinestone or a bead, in sight. A standout was a "dandy's" outfit, mixing masculine and feminine: a pure white blouse with a huge ruffled front and collar of crystal pleats, paired with blakc pants and a fitted jacket. With an outfit this "showy" all you need is a pair of diamond stud earrings, and you're good to go! Another standout were two coats: one was a boxy, black and white tweed mid-length coat with a very large, shawl color. The other, a creamy ivory wool with a funnel neck and large buttons, that seemed very retro (think: Audry Hepburn in Charade).

I didn't go backstage for this one, but the main theme of the hair reminded me of party girl fone to sleep and this is the result in the morning. The hair was a "messy" bun with long pieces or tendrils deliberately falling out of it to the side. It was romantic, but I'd suspect it might be harder to accomplish at home than simply making a bun, and sleeping on it! The makeup was by NARS. I liked the matte, dark rose or warm red lips as the main focal point. I'll try to get the details from NARS and share them later on.