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Thursday, September 06, 2007

Fashion Week Day 2- MISS SIXY runway show

I have always wanted to cover the Miss Sixty runway show, because the fashions are so edgy, fun, and funky, with a true "rock star" vibe. This season, I was able to visit backstage before the show, to cover the MAC Cosmetics makeup team, led by amiable and talented, Polly Osmond.
I asked Polly what the theme was for the show, and she immediately mentioned two obviously rock-star names: Patti Smith and Blondie. The clothes are young, hip, and cook, so the makeup had to be totally "rock star" as well. For starters, this is a look with absolutely no blush, and a clear, shiny lip gloss but no other color on the lips. ALL the color comes from the sexy, lined eye that you can see on the model. For more information on how to do this look, more photos of the makeup, and what products were used, check our FEATURES page at: http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in mid-September, where I will be listing all the Fashion Week Spring 2008 features as they are posted. When asked about what will be hot for Spring 2008, Polly said: "The trends really come from the Paris runway shows such as Prada and Louis Vuitton," but Polly also hinted that she thinks golden colors, more browns, beiges and neturals will be hot for Spring 2008.
And at MAC Cosmetics, where makeup artists are busy covering more than 70 shows this week, a MAC representative told me that the backstage area is a place where MAC Cosmetics can test new products on the models, and the makeup artists can provide valuable feedback on what the final form of the product will be. I'll provide more details in my Miss Sixy feature, later on, but there is a new, loose powder mineral foundation with SPF 15 that makeup artists will use at some of the shows (although not at Miss Sixty) and also in Milan, and Paris. The final formula will ve available in the Spring. MAC is also testing a new, full coverage shine lipstick for Fall 2008, and a beige, pressed eyeshadow with a hint of pearle that will make it's debut as a super-smooth, easy to apply formula.


Neil Moody from Bumble & Bumble was responsible for the hair, which he told me was also inspired by the clothes, and the rock star vibe. He suggested a 70's meets 80's idea (Stevie Nicks mixed with Blondie), with lots of full texture and (the big surprise) a very, very matte look. While stylists have been adding shine and bounce, this look takes products such as Bumble & Bumble's color powders, to matte it down with no shine. The waves were made with a curling iron, wrapped into soft ringlets that were brushed out nearly (but not completely) straight with a Mason Pearson brush.

Here is a photo of one of the dresses I liked, but I couldn't get into the show to see it on the runway despite my best efforts. The best I could do is stand in the lobby, stare at the monitor, and take a photo of it!

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Monday, February 05, 2007

Alexandre Herchovitch-Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

I knew I'd never make it to the actual runway show for Alexandre Herchcovitch, since I had to go downtown for backstage interviews for Gustavo Arango, so I arrived at the backstage area of the tent early, after leaving Alice Roi (just a few steps away in the other backstage tent area).

I had a long wait until I could finally convince someone to let me backstage. In the interim, I met an interesting man who represented Taiwan Vogue. Alas, I had little time to get the scoop about the makeup from the lead makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics (Philippe Chansel). I will get details from my contact at MAC and make sure that the details are included in the photo essay feature I'll be doing, later on (check the Advice Sisters FEATURES page of access it from the Home Page http://www.advicesisters.net throught the next few weeks to see what I've posted).
As you can see from the close up of the makeup photo above, the Fall trend of focusing on the eyes, with minimal makeup everywhere else, was featured by MAC for the Alexandre Herchcovitch show as well. This time, the look wasn't black or blue, but deep, dramatic brown ringing the eyes..with very pale skin and nude lips. The inspiration for the MAC makeup was really taken from the clothes. This designer's clothes are quirkly and irreverant and very fashion-forward. There were, for instance, a number of fashions created from what really looked like heavy duty black plastic garbage bags with tie necks--one paired with a palm-leaf hat with open top, and beige suede high-heeled pump/boots with long ties. This type of look requires unusual makeup.As explained to me by Philippe Chansel for MAC, Alexandre Herchovitch designs for Brazillian women olive skin, so the colors were particularly flattering to them. The "ethnic/rustic" look shows in the focus all on the eyes, with absolutely minimal makeup elsewhere. The look is naturally-messy but artfully blended. The vibe is a peasant woman's view of how beauty looks after she's been working all day ...her labors show in her eyes (in a beautiful and fashionable way, of course). The hair was done by Celso and his team from RUSK --hair slicked back in messy buns.

I didn't see the show, but I did check out a few of the outfits on the racks. As I mentioned above, some of the clothes are a bit "far out" (at least, to me). But there were some wearable, beautiful things as well. A standout for me was of soft green and teal wool plaids, one translated into a long coat that was very beautiful and wearable. Another a double-breasted mini-capelet in teal looked like it would be a comforting "shrug" to add color to an otherwise somber Fall palette.

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Sunday, February 04, 2007

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Alice Roi

It was cold. Very cold. Too cold. I wondered whether or not I should dress for fashion's sake, or to stay warm. The emotional side of me screamed "you've got to look good!" The practical side said: "It is only Saturday and Fashion Week has really just begun...stay warm and don't get sick."

I opted for a compromise: a robin's egg blue wool jacket reversed with peach, and a camisole that complimented those colors. Pants and black sneakers (I knew I was going to be on my feet from 9am-11pm) and an old down jacket that could be dumped on the floor backstage (so I could juggle my handbag, pen and paper, voice recorder and two cameras without holding a jacket, too).

Anyway, the first stop was Alice Roi. I got there fairly early which meant I got to see Stephane Marais for Bourjois do the model's "model" for all the other Bourjois makeup artists. I will be doing full features with photos on this show in the next few weeks, but I'll give you a preview: the look is all about the eyes. A fresh face and nude, moist lips, but the focus is all on the eyes. Stephane used grey and black metallic and smudged and smoothed and dabbed and smudged...all around the model's eyes. The look was a as if you'd used a lot of non-waterproof eye liner and shadows, and didn't wash it off before bedtime and you rubbed your eyes in teh night. The effect would be soft and smudged around your eyes--but obviously, a much more controlled version walked down the runway! When I spoke to the gracious Celine from Bourjois, she said that the makeup artists were using existing Bourjois products, which means you can "get the look" now if you want to jump ahead a season.

Stephane explained that the look was to compliment Alice Roi's theme and clothes, which was inspired by the beloved book about a little French girl: Madeline (my favorite book growing up). So the makeup was youthful and fresh, but with the deep, smoky eye, a not-so-innocent schoolgirl!

The hair, by Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble, was interesting. The models were wearing ponytail extensions made of soft strips of frosted plastic that looked to me like the fringes in a car wash. Hair was pulled sleekly back in mid-crown ponytails. I'll be writing more about the hair on the Advice Sisters Web Site http://www.advicesisters.net/ in the next few weeks. An interesting note was that three of the models (only three) wore short, black wigs. That added a nice balance to the sweetness of the "Madeline" vibe.

I wasn't staying for the show, because I was going to visit backstage at Alexander Herchcovitch, but I did get a sneak peek at the clothes. As yesterday, the colors were austere: black, more black, and black, and some brown and a bit of off-white. There were a lot of chunky knits, worn with (get this): Knee socks and platform shoes of various types. It channeled "Madeline" but more in a Shinjuku punk than very young child. There were some small plaid patterns, primarily in brown tones, some paired with lacy tops to add additional softness. The one bright spot was a sleeveless, swingy, micro-mini dress in a riot of acid pink, orange, white and topped and trimmed with black that looked like something I wore proudly in the 60's. I don't know where it fit into Fall, but it was fun, flirty, and a welcome relief from dark neutrals.


I arrived at the appointed time for Alexander Herchcovitch and was told to come back in half and hour. Nearly two hours later (it was an early call) I finally managed to get backstage to interview the MAC makeup artists and check out the hair. I am off to ARAKS this morning and will write about this show, as well as Gustavo Arrango, and Venexiana, when I get home tonight. It is Superbowl Sunday, but you, my readers, come first!

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